UKC

Rockfax Description
Superb wall climbing on perfect rock with a butch start. The start is powerful and unprotected - plenty of spotters, a pad or a long clipstick are useful. Gain the first of three bolts and once at the third move right and then up to a good thread. Continue to another thread and on up white rock (wires) to below two bolted grooves. Move into the left-hand groove and follow it on small holds to the lower-off. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The first two threads have been retro bolted. All the threads are in good condition summer 2017.

The line of Deja Vu is a little confusing these days as there are so many variations on that wall now. I think it's best to use two ropes.

The first two threads have been replaced by bolts and they are a little higher than the threads were. The start, even getting off the gound, is powerful and unprotected. Some people use a pad or clipstick these days. The first three bolts are shared with a few other routes. At the third bolt move right and then up to a good thread and continue up to another thread and a shake out. From here it is possible to traverse left a move and clip a bolt on Visitation then move back to the rest. Continue up the white rock above placing two or three good wires to gain a point where there are two grooves with bolts in them. Don't climb the one directly above, rather step left and climb up on small sharp crimps and move slightly left to a double bolt belay with two karabiners directly below the roof.

FA. Pete Gomersall, Jill Lawrence 1975. As an aid route which continued over the roof. FFA (Pitch 1). Ron Fawcett 1980.

Ticklists

Extreme Rock , Ultimate E5 ticklist

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Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Late Night Final (Trad)

Grade: E5 6b ***
(Langcliffe Quarry)

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