UKC

Rockfax Description
An excellent wall climb on perfect rock. Start below some threads and power through the bulges to the gentler upper wall - the threads are the gear. Follow this up rightwards past a bolt, and some threads, then move up and back left (bolt). Move back right then step back left into the groove (bolts). Continue up to the main break. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The first two threads have been retro bolted. All the threads are in good condition summer 2017.

The line of Deja Vu is a little confusing these days as there are so many variations on that wall now. I think it's best to use two ropes.

The first two threads have been replaced by bolts and they are a little higher than the threads were. The start, even getting off the gound, is powerful and unprotected. Some people use a pad or clipstick these days. The first three bolts are shared with a few other routes. At the third bolt move right and then up to a good thread and continue up to another thread and a shake out. From here it is possible to traverse left a move and clip a bolt on Visitation then move back to the rest. Continue up the white rock above placing two or three good wires to gain a point where there are two grooves with bolts in them. Don't climb the one directly above, rather step left and climb up on small sharp crimps and move slightly left to a double bolt belay with two karabiners directly below the roof.

FA. Pete Gomersall, Jill Lawrence 1975. As an aid route which continued over the roof. FFA (Pitch 1). Ron Fawcett 1980.

Ticklists

Extreme Rock, Ultimate E5 ticklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
Steve Crowe 25 May, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Lots of lefts and rights in and out of grooves... Impossible to follow at the crag!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lots of lefts and rights in and out of grooves... Impossible to follow at the crag!

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Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Redpoint
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Flashed (β)
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Route of Interest

Genesis

Grade: E5 6b ***
(Eavestone Crag)
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