UKC Logbook - 'Dominatrix'

Rockfax Description
The super-steep line on the left side of the wall is one of the UK's great 7c pitches. The pull leftwards into the steep crack above the first overhang is difficult but the final lurch over the roof to gain the lower-off is the crux. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Dominatrix is now fully bolted. No trad gear needed since an extra bolt has been added at the start.

FA. Martin Berzins, Chris Sowden 1985.

Ticklists

15 Climbs to do before you die , Extreme Rock , Classic UK F7s , Mike and Connors 2 year plan , Yorkshire Limestone Graded List , Bill's 2016 Sweepstake 20 , Northern Limestone for Catalans , 2019 Targets , Yorkshire Limestone top 50 , James' Summer Ticklist , Chris Sowden U.K Sport Routes , Steep UK Sport Routes , Pyramid to 8a+ , Short King's Queen Lines , Sporty Spice

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User	Date		Notes
JosephWhitham	7 Apr, 2021	Show βeta βeta: Working moves , tricky gaining upper groove	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Working moves , tricky gaining upper groove
Daniel Grout	4 Jun, 2020	Show βeta βeta: First session was hell, 4th day on and felt horrific, couldn't even make it to the top bucket. Good links second session. First rp third session, sent pretty comfortably bar the terrible cut loose and legs flailing around the bottom roof. Spectacular route, really is on you from that first roof, super goey. Needed a good bit of refining	βeta?
Show beta βeta: First session was hell, 4th day on and felt horrific, couldn't even make it to the top bucket. Good links second session. First rp third session, sent pretty comfortably bar the terrible cut loose and legs flailing around the bottom roof. Spectacular route, really is on you from that first roof, super goey. Needed a good bit of refining
Aaron.Clifford	27 Aug, 2019	Show βeta βeta: Definitely a loose block between the first and second bolts, easily avoided but it's so chalked up it's very inviting. Worth someone going up with a crowbar and taking it off before someone gets it in the head.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Definitely a loose block between the first and second bolts, easily avoided but it's so chalked up it's very inviting. Worth someone going up with a crowbar and taking it off before someone gets it in the head.
RD	5 May, 2007	Show βeta βeta: A bolt at the bottom and one on the lip of the first roof. There's a few loose holds before you get to the first bolt. Maybe you also didn't notice the 'good' holds between first and second bolts are actualy made of wobbly blocks, all of which could fall out. Yes - it's mostly easy climbing but if the bolt above the first roof failed (and the rock where it's placed is cracked) then somebody would probably die. Do you need glasses?	βeta?
Show beta βeta: A bolt at the bottom and one on the lip of the first roof. There's a few loose holds before you get to the first bolt. Maybe you also didn't notice the 'good' holds between first and second bolts are actualy made of wobbly blocks, all of which could fall out. Yes - it's mostly easy climbing but if the bolt above the first roof failed (and the rock where it's placed is cracked) then somebody would probably die. Do you need glasses?
Andy Farnell	29 Apr, 2007	Show βeta βeta: Where else would you suggest putting bolts in? I did this just after Easter 2007 and found no looseness at all. Diet time maybe ;)	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Where else would you suggest putting bolts in? I did this just after Easter 2007 and found no looseness at all. Diet time maybe ;)
RD	22 Apr, 2007	Show βeta βeta: It would be a better route if it was properely bolted as there is still many loose blocks that will fall off at some point near the start. Yesterday we pulled off enough rock to fill a bucket! Compared with all the other routes on North Buttress the run out between the bolts are excessive. It's another case of 'traditional Yorshire values' overriding common sence since if certain bolts did fail serious injury is guaranteed.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: It would be a better route if it was properely bolted as there is still many loose blocks that will fall off at some point near the start. Yesterday we pulled off enough rock to fill a bucket! Compared with all the other routes on North Buttress the run out between the bolts are excessive. It's another case of 'traditional Yorshire values' overriding common sence since if certain bolts did fail serious injury is guaranteed.
GDes	30 Jun, 2006	Show βeta βeta: Dear Nic, you do know it doesnt count if you pull on the bolts?	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Dear Nic, you do know it doesnt count if you pull on the bolts?