UKC

2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The large open corner gives the best mid-grade trad route on the crag, which can be climbed if a little seepage is present. High in the sky and low in the grade. 1) 5a, 27m. Follow the corner to a bulge. Move onto the right wall and climb up before stepping back into the corner and a ledge on the left. All a bit floral but very pleasant. 2) 5b, 20m. Climb above the belay to a bulge. Pull around this awkwardly to gain a rest (thread). Move left and climb up to a tree. Traverse back into the corner and follow it to the top and a bolt belay/lower-off. A direct finish up the corner System of a Down, E4 6b gives a technical and equally good but hard alternative. © Rockfax

FA. J.Sumner, D.Alcock 1956. FFA. Pete Livesey, J.Sheard 1972.

Ticklists

100 best limestone climbs in Britain, Ultimate E2 ticklist, Fast & Free: Pete Livesay's Top 30 British Classics, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Chris H's 100 Mega Classic Trad

Feedback

User Date Notes
will9911 21 Jul Show βeta
βeta: Cleaned well on the way down, key holds now accessible including the two massive threads that you couldn’t even see due to the soil and grass. Under the roof cleaned too. Pulled the grass out of the e4 as well
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Cleaned well on the way down, key holds now accessible including the two massive threads that you couldn’t even see due to the soil and grass. Under the roof cleaned too. Pulled the grass out of the e4 as well
Enty 19 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: And if you do the top pitch and walk over towards the top of Dominatrix you will find a nice new abseil station to get down without walking 3 miles through the farmers field. 2 abs down. Enty
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: And if you do the top pitch and walk over towards the top of Dominatrix you will find a nice new abseil station to get down without walking 3 miles through the farmers field. 2 abs down. Enty
Dave Musgrove 12 Feb, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I've done it at least 5 times. It's probably the best E2 on Yorks Limestone. It may look grassy from below but once you start bridging all you see are perfect holds and space beneath your feet! Dave
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I've done it at least 5 times. It's probably the best E2 on Yorks Limestone. It may look grassy from below but once you start bridging all you see are perfect holds and space beneath your feet! Dave
Chris Craggs 21 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: A great route - a bit floral and rattly but a classic Kilnsey experience. Can be done even when quite wet by neat bridging. Chris
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A great route - a bit floral and rattly but a classic Kilnsey experience. Can be done even when quite wet by neat bridging. Chris

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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 33
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 33
Votes cast 31
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest

Wombat

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Malham Cove)
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