Rockfax Description
The large open corner gives the best mid-grade trad route on the crag, which can be climbed if a little seepage is present. High in the sky and low in the grade.
1) 5a, 27m. Follow the corner to a bulge. Move onto the right wall and climb up before stepping back into the corner and a ledge on the left. All a bit floral but very pleasant.
2) 5b, 20m. Climb above the belay to a bulge. Pull around this awkwardly to gain a rest (thread). Move left and climb up to a tree. Traverse back into the corner and follow it to the top and a bolt belay. © Rockfax
FA. J.Sumner, D.Alcock 1956. FFA. Pete Livesey, J.Sheard 1972.
100 best limestone climbs in Britain , Ultimate E2 ticklist , Fast & Free: Pete Livesay's Top 30 British Classics , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Chris H's 100 Mega Classic Trad , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs
User | Date | Notes | ||
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will9911 | 21 Jul, 2021 |
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βeta: Cleaned well on the way down, key holds now accessible including the two massive threads that you couldn’t even see due to the soil and grass. Under the roof cleaned too. Pulled the grass out of the e4 as well | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Cleaned well on the way down, key holds now accessible including the two massive threads that you couldn’t even see due to the soil and grass. Under the roof cleaned too. Pulled the grass out of the e4 as well |
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Enty | 19 Apr, 2004 |
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βeta: And if you do the top pitch and walk over towards the top of Dominatrix you will find a nice new abseil station to get down without walking 3 miles through the farmers field. 2 abs down. Enty | βeta? | |
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βeta: And if you do the top pitch and walk over towards the top of Dominatrix you will find a nice new abseil station to get down without walking 3 miles through the farmers field. 2 abs down. Enty |
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Dave Musgrove | 12 Feb, 2004 |
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βeta: I've done it at least 5 times. It's probably the best E2 on Yorks Limestone. It may look grassy from below but once you start bridging all you see are perfect holds and space beneath your feet! Dave | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: I've done it at least 5 times. It's probably the best E2 on Yorks Limestone. It may look grassy from below but once you start bridging all you see are perfect holds and space beneath your feet! Dave |
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Chris Craggs | 21 Oct, 2003 |
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βeta: A great route - a bit floral and rattly but a classic Kilnsey experience. Can be done even when quite wet by neat bridging. Chris | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: A great route - a bit floral and rattly but a classic Kilnsey experience. Can be done even when quite wet by neat bridging. Chris |
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Grade: E2 6a ***
(Sypeland)