The large open corner gives the best mid-grade trad route on the crag, which can be climbed if a little seepage is present. High in the sky and low in the grade. 1) 5a, 27m. Follow the corner to a bulge. Move onto the right wall and climb up before stepping back into the corner and a ledge on the left. All a bit floral but very pleasant. 2) 5b, 20m. Climb above the belay to a bulge. Pull around this awkwardly to gain a rest (thread). Move left and climb up to a tree. Traverse back into the corner and follow it to the top and a bolt belay/lower-off. A direct finish up the corner System of a Down, E4 6b gives a technical and equally good but hard alternative. © Rockfax
FA. J.Sumner, D.Alcock 1956. FFA. Pete Livesey, J.Sheard 1972.
100 best limestone climbs in Britain, Ultimate E2 ticklist, Fast & Free: Pete Livesay's Top 30 British Classics, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Chris H's 100 Mega Classic Trad
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