UKC

Rockfax Description
A popular route of immaculate quality and one of the best at the grade in the UK. At the top of the pumpy leaning wall, move left and up as for the hard section of The Thumb. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
As a project this was known as "Under the Thumb".

FA. Pete Gomersall 1989.

Ticklists

Yorkshire Big Three , Yorkshire Limestone Graded List , UK 8a and up , Yorkshire Limestone top 50 , Sportland , Pyramid to 8a+ , Another lifelist? , Power of Climbing , Hannahs Kilnsey Ticklist , Sport life , UK Most Ticked Sport Routes by Grade , Summer '25

Feedback

User Date Notes
Qisheng Xie 20 Sep, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: Sharing my final beta: at the big rightward move at the lower section, there is a very shallow slit foothold, turns the move into a steady lunge; at the middle section moving left into the rest, high left into a good hold, foot into the slot, right shoulder into slot, smear feet and rock over to left; big campus can be defused with a left heel hook; at the roof don’t rest too long on the right, you need it fresh; left smear helps for the first right hand crimp (use the thumb too); drop knee and unwind for the rail!
Show beta
βeta: Sharing my final beta: at the big rightward move at the lower section, there is a very shallow slit foothold, turns the move into a steady lunge; at the middle section moving left into the rest, high left into a good hold, foot into the slot, right shoulder into slot, smear feet and rock over to left; big campus can be defused with a left heel hook; at the roof don’t rest too long on the right, you need it fresh; left smear helps for the first right hand crimp (use the thumb too); drop knee and unwind for the rail!
Duncan Campbell 13 Sep, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: Knocked foothold off for the drop knee on the thumb crux yday. Still possible without (I used a higher more positive foot) and there is a bigger foothold slightly further right. Flo Redpointed it straight after me having never been up there. Threw it straight in the river after. :P
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Knocked foothold off for the drop knee on the thumb crux yday. Still possible without (I used a higher more positive foot) and there is a bigger foothold slightly further right. Flo Redpointed it straight after me having never been up there. Threw it straight in the river after. :P
andy jennings 15 Jul, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: First 8a+, amazing!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: First 8a+, amazing!
Eder 11 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Drop the Onsight, 2nd go.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Drop the Onsight, 2nd go.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High 8b
Mid 8b
Low 8b
High 8a+
Mid 8a+
Low 8a+
High 8a
Mid 8a
Low 8a
Votes cast 41
Votes cast 35
Style of Ascent
Lead
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Militia

Grade: 8a+ ***
(Giggleswick South)

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