Re-gearing has made this virtually a clip-up. The climbing is also much harder since the filling in of a chipped hold at the top of the ramp. Climb up to the ramp and follow it to its end. Step right to pockets on the wall then move up right to easier ground (good large nut out right). Move back left to a lower-off. © Rockfax
FA. Pete Gomersall 1984. The route name refers to the first ascensionist's feelings about the use of chipped holds. Since filled in and reclimbed and regraded..