Climbs 175
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 352m a.s.l
Faces E

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Bejabers Sport © Paul Clarke

Crag features

A set of long scars (part formerly known as Gate Cote Scar in YL guides) on both sides of the Knipe Scar spur and broken into distinct sectors by areas of vegetated/rocky ground.  Despite infrequent ascents of the sport routes this has been a neglected area where sporadic (every decade or so) trad development had not been embraced. After falling into a neglected and, in some cases, unapproachable state, recent cleaning has radically altered the old routes, often making them entirely different to the original lines, and a sports approach has given the opportunity to popularise the climbs.  Ash dieback has also taken its toll.  The rock varies across the three main areas and is often excellent though, on parts of Knipe East Left, sometimes has a flaky structure that demands care.  The bolts compensate but a helmet and careful approach are sensible.  Each area has a distinct character giving variety to the climbing.  During dry spells, seepage is minimal on all but the Lemony Sector. Although a path once existed, crossing the ground linking the easterly crag and leading to the right-hand walls, this has disappeared. Instead, follow the much easier, alternative approach advice given in the text.  Variously sheltered and exposed so note wind direction.  In summer the easterly crags have sunshine until 2pm and the west after late morning.  A dozen clips and 40m rope are adequate.  There are lots of new climbs so please consider all grades to be working ones.

Approach notes

There are a couple of approaches following access land or footpaths Please stick to these as other approaches involve crossing non-access land and/or walls.

It is worth noting that accessing the sectors from the path that leads above the crag is the most pleasant way of getting to them and provides excellent pre and post-climb lazing and views.  Park on grass off the road running above the River Skifare accessed over a cattle grid just north of the bridge. The best place is just before the conifer woodland. A sign indicates that a charge is made to park here but there is no honesty box and collection seems to be only on very infrequent weekends. A Parking place just uphill from Skifare Bridge also gives access to a footpath crossing to this point. Walk uphill, crossing a fence using a stile.  A clear path leads up to another stile giving access to the moor above the crag. Walk rightwards along the line of the wall then pass to the left of a prominent ash tree and limestone pavement.  There is a scramble down to the left sectors by an easily stepped-over wire fence found near the end of the pavement and then go along the base (see pic below).  Alternatively, set up a delightful base camp, on a ledge 50m further on, above the Blue Meanings Sector for fine views and drop down either by abseil (bolts in place) or as described.

The original approach (so found in guidebooks) is fairly unpleasant being steep and trackless. It goes from parking for an absolute maximum of two small cars by a big tree a little over 1km north of Skifare Bridge. From here a gate accesses the hillside and a steep flog leads upwards and slightly rightwards to reach the crag line accessing the Left Sectors via a stile feature in the wire fence. You may need to drive to Kettlewell to turn on leaving.

The right sector can be approached from the Left Sectors by a bushwhack below the crag but it is currently better to go along the top and scramble down.

Many thanks to the Yorkshire boys for all the hard work in cleaning and bolting the crag. Good job, well done.
Christheclimber - 07/Jul/23
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