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Climbs 169
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 154m a.s.l
Faces S

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The Nadser © Sean Bell

Crag features

The crag is very steep. There are some very goodVS-E1 routes. Most of the easier stuff is overgrown. The bouldering is the best in the county, often dry in wet weather.

Please don't use excessive chalk and clean it off before you leave..

Approach notes

Check https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/View.aspx?id=546

Scottish Woodlands (the landowner of Kyloe In) have confirmed that access is now permitted at all times, regardless of stalking activity at Kyloe-in-the-woods (Kyloe-In).

It is crucial that climbers approach the crag via the track described below and do not deviate from it or the crag. Do not thrash through the woodland from Kyloe Out.

Parking and Approach

Parking is limited at Kyloe so please be considerate - make sure your vehicle doesn't block the road or any gates. NOTE THAT THE GATES AT kYLOE IN OPEN OUTWARDS. Do not park in the gate 'fan'. Scottish Woodlands do access the woods some weekends so it is vital the gate isn't blocked. 

The agreed approach starts at the northern gate: grid reference NU 03532,38982. Follow the forest road up a slight incline. After about 600m A track merges from the right, ignore this and continue to a fork 100m ahead . Take the right branch. Follow the right fork for 300m then turn right at the T-junction. The rocks soon appear to the left of the track just after an obvious disclaimer sign.

 

 

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Guidebooks

Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Northumberland Bouldering Guide (2008)
Northumberland Climbing Guide (2004)

Out of print:
Wasn't impressed by the bouldering overly chalky and polished Personally thought Bowden and helpburn are the better neighbours
Jonathan_Horton - 11/Sep/20
Loads of ticks out today. Probs worth a check of yourself and stuff. My pad was covered and a few on arms. If only I'd had as many logbook ticks...
ctranter - 03/Sep/20
Quick message to anyone vising the crag on 1st & 2nd October. Newcastle University Mountaineering Club will be running two sessions for beginners ~20 people, using top ropes and may be hogging routes for a little while. Any issues with this please don't hesitate to get in touch with me on c.furness1@ncl.ac.uk. Thanks
connor_furness - 04/Sep/16
Sign was up on Saturday to say Crag was our of bounds for shooting, sign is screwed in place so looks semi- permenant. Bit disapointed after long treck up from Oldham, But nearby Kyloe (Out) was OK
karlb - 20/Apr/15
Excessive chalking has always been a big problem here, but this does seem to have gotten worse over the last year. Cleaning excess chalk off the crag after climbing is essential.
BobbyG - 10/Jun/11
The crag has some excellent mid-grade routes that should not be ignored just because bouldering is so popular. It would make a good alternative to the overused Bowden / Kyloe Out crags. At the time of this comment the vast majority of the classics are in good, climbable condition. See: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=177581
Fiend - 18/Apr/06
Although I would love to go to improve my technique, it it always very busy. Last time I was up there I fell in love with the place, wish I could visit more often.
Marts - 24/Jul/05
Possibly the best bouldering/short routes in Northumberland. Local folklore has it that the hardest boulder problem in England resides here. Even some small boulders at the end that are the perfect height for kids. Definitely worth a visit.
CJC - 02/Apr/03
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Climbs at this crag

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