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Climbs 98
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 500m a.s.l
Faces all

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Pili © vollaard

Crag features

Behind the typical bustling city of Murcia is a long range of hills. The high point is the rocky ridge of the Cresta del Gallo and at one end of this is the impressive tower of La Panocha, which translates appropriately as the Corncob. This is the best climbing venue in the immediate area, and a popular place at weekends with people escaping the city for a bit of cragging, hence it can get busy but during the week you are likely to have the place to yourself. The area has a full spread of grades, with many fine face-routes and a number of mini-summits to bag. Most of the routes are single pitch, though the biggest of these are almost 30m long. The routes have been popular for generations and many are very polished nowadays.

The Cresta del Gallo is at an altitude of almost 500m, so can be a little cooler than the valleys surrounding it. Being a ridge, there is often a breeze blowing and La Panocha has walls facing in all directions making it a viable venue at almost any time of the year.

Approach notes

The crag is situated southeast of the city of Murcia. From the north, follow the A7 motorway southeast then the A30 that runs round Murcia, towards Cartagena. Once past the city centre, take junction 148 signed 'La Alberca' (and 'Algezares'). Head into La Alberca and join the Mu302. Drive about 3km east on this then, about 200m past a petrol station on the left, make a sharp right turn signed to 'Santuari de la Fuensanta' - old sign, just past a small park area. Drive up the hill past the impressive religious buildings to a T-junction. Turn left and follow the road past a section of one-way road to the extensive parking in front of the cliff.

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Guidebooks

Spain : Costa Blanca

The 2013 edition of the popular Costa Blanca Rockfax. 456 pages, 3000 routes on over 40 crags. Covers sport climbing and trad climbing from Murcia, through Alicante, Benidorm and Calp, up to crags south of Valencia.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Climbing in Sierra Espu?a (2005)
Escaladas en el Municipio de Murcia (2004)

Out of print:
Costa Blanca (2005)
Quite loose in a lot of places and one side of the Panocha looks ready to head down the hillside!!!
valentinesbabe - 18/Feb/13
Sector Lennon is the crag to the right of La Panocha facing the car park. Two minutes approach
Pencarth - 04/Apr/11
Probably worth mentioning that around Xmas time, the sun doesn't get high enough in the sky to shine on the lower part of the South face and lower right of the west face of the main crag. Therefore not really a good destination at that time of year (although sector Paisaje Lunar gets the sun until around 4.30 and is sheltered)
Neil Binns - 04/Jan/06
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Climbs at this crag

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