UKC Logbook - 'Cave Arête Indirect'

18m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the left wall of the cave to a good spike, swing round the arete and climb to ledges and a stance (5a). Head up the corner to the roof, step left and pull over rapidly to access the easier head wall - wild! © Rockfax

FA. Ivar Berg. The first E1 ever climbed. 1916.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List , Hard Grit history , Moorland Grit - The Essential Selection (Over The Moors) , Ultimate E1 ticklist , On Peak Rock

Feedback Always Hide βeta

User	Date
Deezel65	22 Sep, 2019	Show βeta βeta: The various guidebook lines are confusing so here’s a description without giving too much away - start at the obvious spike, grab the obvious rail above then traverse left from here to the face - up the face to the big ledge and cave - from the back of the cave have a word with yourself then hand traverse at the lowest point (it gets better) from a hanging position on the front of the face a strenuous sequence leads to glory.
Show beta βeta: The various guidebook lines are confusing so here’s a description without giving too much away - start at the obvious spike, grab the obvious rail above then traverse left from here to the face - up the face to the big ledge and cave - from the back of the cave have a word with yourself then hand traverse at the lowest point (it gets better) from a hanging position on the front of the face a strenuous sequence leads to glory.
Nick Smith - Climbers	19 May, 2002	Show βeta βeta: I can't wait to see a topo with the actual line for the 2nd pitch! (The BMC Kinder guide isn't clear and OPR is even worse) I traversed out left on good holds and poor heel-hooks to strenuous pulls over the lip of the obvious roof. At least 5b, possibly 5c moves. Great route though - the first pitch probably is E1 5a or perhaps easy 5b.
Show beta βeta: I can't wait to see a topo with the actual line for the 2nd pitch! (The BMC Kinder guide isn't clear and OPR is even worse) I traversed out left on good holds and poor heel-hooks to strenuous pulls over the lip of the obvious roof. At least 5b, possibly 5c moves. Great route though - the first pitch probably is E1 5a or perhaps easy 5b.