UKC Logbook - 'Cave Arête Indirect'

18m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the left wall of the cave to a good spike, swing round the arete and climb to ledges and a stance (5a). Head up the corner to the roof, step left and pull over rapidly to access the easier head wall - wild! © Rockfax

FA. Ivar Berg. The first E1 ever climbed. 1916.

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User	Date		Notes
cheque	4 May	Show βeta βeta: Berg’s first ascent of this is described as being the first E1 but the start of the route has changed since (the 1948 and 1956 editions of the guidebook both describe it as being impossible due to a lost hold) and he didn’t climb the top roof via the lower eliminate line either. That wasn’t in a guide until 1971 so was probably first done in the 60s. His first ascent of Cave Crack on the same day was regarded as a bigger deal at the time and probably was more difficult.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Berg’s first ascent of this is described as being the first E1 but the start of the route has changed since (the 1948 and 1956 editions of the guidebook both describe it as being impossible due to a lost hold) and he didn’t climb the top roof via the lower eliminate line either. That wasn’t in a guide until 1971 so was probably first done in the 60s. His first ascent of Cave Crack on the same day was regarded as a bigger deal at the time and probably was more difficult.
Deezel65	22 Sep, 2019	Show βeta βeta: The various guidebook lines are confusing so here’s a description without giving too much away - start at the obvious spike, grab the obvious rail above then traverse left from here to the face - up the face to the big ledge and cave - from the back of the cave have a word with yourself then hand traverse at the lowest point (it gets better) from a hanging position on the front of the face a strenuous sequence leads to glory.
Show beta βeta: The various guidebook lines are confusing so here’s a description without giving too much away - start at the obvious spike, grab the obvious rail above then traverse left from here to the face - up the face to the big ledge and cave - from the back of the cave have a word with yourself then hand traverse at the lowest point (it gets better) from a hanging position on the front of the face a strenuous sequence leads to glory.
Nick Smith - Climbers	19 May, 2002	Show βeta βeta: I can't wait to see a topo with the actual line for the 2nd pitch! (The BMC Kinder guide isn't clear and OPR is even worse) I traversed out left on good holds and poor heel-hooks to strenuous pulls over the lip of the obvious roof. At least 5b, possibly 5c moves. Great route though - the first pitch probably is E1 5a or perhaps easy 5b.
Show beta βeta: I can't wait to see a topo with the actual line for the 2nd pitch! (The BMC Kinder guide isn't clear and OPR is even worse) I traversed out left on good holds and poor heel-hooks to strenuous pulls over the lip of the obvious roof. At least 5b, possibly 5c moves. Great route though - the first pitch probably is E1 5a or perhaps easy 5b.