UKC

18m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the left wall of the cave to a good spike, swing round the arete and climb to ledges and a stance (5a). Head up the corner to the roof, step left and pull over rapidly to access the easier head wall - wild! © Rockfax

FA. Ivar Berg. The first E1 ever climbed. 1916.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Hard Grit history, Moorland Grit - The Essential Selection (Over The Moors), Ultimate E1 ticklist, On Peak Rock

Feedback

User Date Notes
Deezel65 22 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The various guidebook lines are confusing so here’s a description without giving too much away - start at the obvious spike, grab the obvious rail above then traverse left from here to the face - up the face to the big ledge and cave - from the back of the cave have a word with yourself then hand traverse at the lowest point (it gets better) from a hanging position on the front of the face a strenuous sequence leads to glory.
 
Show beta
βeta: The various guidebook lines are confusing so here’s a description without giving too much away - start at the obvious spike, grab the obvious rail above then traverse left from here to the face - up the face to the big ledge and cave - from the back of the cave have a word with yourself then hand traverse at the lowest point (it gets better) from a hanging position on the front of the face a strenuous sequence leads to glory.
Nick Smith - Climbers 19 May, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: I can't wait to see a topo with the actual line for the 2nd pitch! (The BMC Kinder guide isn't clear and OPR is even worse) I traversed out left on good holds and poor heel-hooks to strenuous pulls over the lip of the obvious roof. At least 5b, possibly 5c moves. Great route though - the first pitch probably is E1 5a or perhaps easy 5b.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I can't wait to see a topo with the actual line for the 2nd pitch! (The BMC Kinder guide isn't clear and OPR is even worse) I traversed out left on good holds and poor heel-hooks to strenuous pulls over the lip of the obvious roof. At least 5b, possibly 5c moves. Great route though - the first pitch probably is E1 5a or perhaps easy 5b.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 12
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 13
Votes cast 14
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest

Debauchery

Grade: E1 5b ***
(High Tor)
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