One of the best and most popular routes on this face. The route follows two successive black streaks. The harder upper pitches can be avoided by exiting right after pitch 5 to join the normal descent from the face.
Start near the rightmost point of the lowest horizontal break, just right of a cave a few metres higher up the face.
1) IV+, 50m. Climb a shallow crack to reach the break in the face. Climb right then back left to a good belay in a small hollow.
2) V+, 50m. Climb left to reach a small corner. Follow this then the successive corner to reach a small ledge. Move right then climb direct.
3) III+, 40m. Follow the black streak to belay before a large loose scree ledge.
4) III, 45m. Ascend the ledge aiming for the base of another black streak on the wall above. Belay just left of the streak.
5) IV, 50m. Climb a small corner on the left side of the black streak. Either avoid an overhang on the right climbing a short steep corner then continue direct, or move 5m left to follow a crack before moving diagonally right to reach the second ledge. Possible escape right here.
6) III, 35m. Climb easier ground to the left.
7) III, 35m. Continue in the same line to a belay below a steep black wall to the right of an arete.
8) V+, 50m Continue left to a black ledge by the arete, then move diagonally right up an inclined ramp to reach a steep face. Step up and climb a black bulge, then move left to reach a ledge. Follow this 10m left to belay below an overhanging crack.
9) V+, 45m. Climb the overhanging crack then continue vertically following a corner to reach a ledge.
10) II, 30m. Do not climb the crack above but instead move right and continue on easy ground to a large scree-strewn amphitheatre. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Big black water streak, protectable by countless thread runners.