250m, 9 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A superb climb which, although not offering particularly striking situations, provides excellent climbing on predominantly good rock. There are numerous variations, some of which suggest a possible ascent at IV+, but it is worth being confident at upper grade V to find the best climbing following the line of highest quality rock. Reasonably well-pegged with equipped stances, but perhaps less fixed gear than on other classic mid-grade routes.
Start beneath the memorial plaque to Hans Plank.
1) IV-, 35m. Follow a rising rightwards diagonal line up a natural weakness to a large ledge just left of the arete to a 2-peg stance and a spike.
2) IV, 50m. Step right on good rock towards the arete. From the arete, climb direct, with a number of variations, to reach a 3-peg belay 5m left of arete.
3) IV, 40m. Step 3m right then climb a chimney with an awkward move to enter it, then after 12m follow a vegetated rocky ramp to a 2-peg stance.
4) V, 35m. Climb up for a few metres to a peg then traverse right on good rock (thread) to a stance by a yellow shattered niche.
4a) IV, 35m. Alternatively, carry on direct up the vegetated crack (often wet but easier) then traverse more easily right, thus avoiding the bulge of the next pitch.
5) V+, 30m. From the niche, move up and right to a peg and pull through a bulge on a hidden side-pull, then move right for 1m onto the arete. Climb a shallow corner-crack - smooth and tricky at first then easier - and continue to easier ground and a stance on a large grassy ledge.
6) V, 45m. There are several variations here. Either traverse 4m right to a shattered chimney and climb this, angling back towards the arete for 45m to a niche.
6a) VI-, Alternatively, go direct from the stance to a flake and climb this (harder but excellent climbing), which is bold but protectable with micro-cams, then continue in the same line just left of the arete on a series of well-worn pockets, to reach a white corner. Climb this to a stance in a niche.
6b) IV+, It is also possible to move further right around the arete then climb direct (easier but on less-solid rock).
7) V-, 40m. Follow the white rock right (ignoring tat that tempts you to move left) passing a mini-arete to reach the main arete. Climb direct through a bulge then continue with excellent climbing to a stance 1m left of the main arete.
8) IV-, 40m. Continue up the arete on nice pockets to a grassy ledge (intermediate belay at 15m) then continue diagonally left up a crack, trending left up a chimney to reach a terrace below the summit.
9) II, 50m. Follow the path left along the terrace to reach a notch between the second and third Sella Towers, then double back right to scramble to the summit. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A lot of variations exist. Good days outing.
(250m, 9 pitches up to V+, or 300m, 11 pitches up to IV+, depending on guidebook)

Ticklists

Classic Dolomite Climbs - Kohler/Memmel, Dolomites Trip

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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
Mike Hood 19 Sep, 2018 AltLd
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides 11 Sep, 2018 Lead
with Hugh Reid
with Hugh Reid
Vert 14 Aug, 2018 2nd Fantastic route- interesting crack climbing on juggy rock. A good challenge
with Christof, Duracell Bunny
Fantastic route- interesting crack climbing on juggy rock. A good challenge
with Christof, Duracell Bunny
Hidden 14 Aug, 2018 2nd
s.hunter ?Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
peterbeaumont ?Aug, 2018 AltLd Climbed more directly from around 4th pitch. More sustained and a bit bold. V++ ? But very worthwhile
Climbed more directly from around 4th pitch. More sustained and a bit bold. V++ ? But very worthwhile
RM199 27 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Lead 4 x V pitches UK grades approx, Vdiff, hs 4b, s4a, vs 4c, hvs 5a, hvs 4c (shattered chimney good but very loose at start), easy vs 4c, s 4a, diff
Lead 4 x V pitches UK grades approx, Vdiff, hs 4b, s4a, vs 4c, hvs 5a, hvs 4c (shattered chimney good but very loose at start), easy vs 4c, s 4a, diff
Hidden 24 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
Maz J 26 Jun, 2018 AltLd Lead pitches 2, 4, 6a, 7
Lead pitches 2, 4, 6a, 7
benrhyd ?Aug, 2017 AltLd
with Adam Haynes
with Adam Haynes
daveclarke5 7 Jul, 2017 AltLd
with Stephen
with Stephen
colin milton 22 Jun, 2017 AltLd Lead all the grade v pitches. Enjoyed this even more than vinatzer
with eric milton
Lead all the grade v pitches. Enjoyed this even more than vinatzer
with eric milton
Hidden 17 Jun, 2017 -
Dizz 18 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
Stickle Tarn 2 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S I wasn't blown away by the climb, however P7 is cool. A few rusty pitons in situ at the belay stances and some offer very little opertunity to back up with nuts or friends.
I wasn't blown away by the climb, however P7 is cool. A few rusty pitons in situ at the belay stances and some offer very little opertunity to back up with nuts or friends.
Hidden ?Sep, 2015 AltLd dnf
esther 28 Aug, 2015 AltLd
dodfoster 28 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
with esther
with esther
Alessandro Tentori 15 Jul, 2015 2nd O/S Route finding is challenging at times
with Luca Gasparini
Route finding is challenging at times
with Luca Gasparini
Maynard 25 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Hannes Marlok
with Hannes Marlok
james1978 ?Sep, 2014 AltLd
with pam
with pam
ian d f ?Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
with Angus, Marion
with Angus, Marion
Hidden ?Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S
ferdia 1 Sep, 2013 AltLd O/S
with burto
with burto
burto 1 Sep, 2013 AltLd O/S
with ferdia
with ferdia
Kirill 23 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S Climbed this early in the morning before the rain. I led the odd pitches, including the crux.
Climbed this early in the morning before the rain. I led the odd pitches, including the crux.
Hidden ?Aug, 2013 Lead
Paula Ryan ?Aug, 2013 AltLd
with Robin Brooke
with Robin Brooke
CurlyStevo ?Aug, 2013 AltLd
with Kirill
with Kirill
The Ivanator 27 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S Steep and juggy, fun climbing except when I took the wrong start to pitch 5 ...resulting in a terrifying 5b rockover move on horror choss. "Thanks" to the thoughtful person who placed the peg that led me that way! & sorry to the parties below as I couldn't help dislodging a stone or two ...honestly couldn't breathe without bits falling off!
with jezb1
Steep and juggy, fun climbing except when I took the wrong start to pitch 5 ...resulting in a terrifying 5b rockover move on horror choss. "Thanks" to the thoughtful person who placed the peg that led me that way! & sorry to the parties below as I couldn't help dislodging a stone or two ...honestly couldn't breathe without bits falling off!
with jezb1
jezb1 27 Jul, 2012 AltLd Good route, as suggested seems like lots of possible variations...
Good route, as suggested seems like lots of possible variations...
hlegge ?Jun, 2012 AltLd O/S Second big route with Jack. We had intended to try the Messner route (VI) but was soaking wet and after a pitch decided it was wrong time of season to do it. one to do later. So moved to this V+ route. Got stuck behind a slow team so instead of doing the route completely as described we did a few alternative variations on some pitches, we think this made it slightly harder but more enjoyable. Great feeling at the top!
with Jack Hodgson
Second big route with Jack. We had intended to try the Messner route (VI) but was soaking wet and after a pitch decided it was wrong time of season to do it. one to do later. So moved to this V+ route. Got stuck behind a slow team so instead of doing the route completely as described we did a few alternative variations on some pitches, we think this made it slightly harder but more enjoyable. Great feeling at the top!
with Jack Hodgson
theotherpetehill 4 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S
zach.stone 4 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S P1,3,6,8
P1,3,6,8
Nico34 ?Aug, 2010 AltLd
Ed Babs 24 Aug, 2009 AltLd O/S
with Harry
with Harry
Kopo ?Aug, 2009 -
with Emmi
with Emmi
Dave Rumney ?Sep, 2008 AltLd O/S
with James McDowall
with James McDowall
Ben1983 3 Aug, 2008 AltLd O/S 4.20 hrs
4.20 hrs
Hidden 11 Jul, 2008 2nd
paul79 ?Jul, 2008 AltLd O/S
jcj ??, 2008 -
Hidden 21 Jul, 2007 Lead O/S
chris wyatt ??, 2007 -
WB 3 Sep, 2006 Lead O/S abbed off after pitch 5. Didn't know the time and thought it was getting late. Had plenty of time in the end
with GuyM
abbed off after pitch 5. Didn't know the time and thought it was getting late. Had plenty of time in the end
with GuyM
akhughes ?Jun, 2004 AltLd O/S
with Steptoe
with Steptoe
NickJH ?Jul, 2000 AltLd O/S
with RGraves
with RGraves
Hidden ??, 1997 AltLd
tjekel ??, 1987 -
Rob Davies 11 Aug, 1977 AltLd Climbed as 2 pairs. Tangled up with other parties, so slow, followed 4+ variations.
with Charles Kinniburgh, Laurie Gardiner, David Kinniburgh
Climbed as 2 pairs. Tangled up with other parties, so slow, followed 4+ variations.
with Charles Kinniburgh, Laurie Gardiner, David Kinniburgh
Falko 1 Aug, 1973 Lead O/S
with TRE
with TRE
Campbell42 29 Aug, 1971 Lead O/S
with Bev Barratt
with Bev Barratt
eroica64 ?Jul, 1971 AltLd
with Stephen Carrot, Ron Hardaker, Roger Everett
with Stephen Carrot, Ron Hardaker, Roger Everett
Seymore Butt ??, 1966 AltLd
with John Whitfield
with John Whitfield
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Voting
High VI-
Mid VI-
Low VI-
High V+
Mid V+
Low V+
High V
Mid V
Low V
Votes cast 9
Votes cast 9
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Not Set