Rockfax Description
I, 150m, 1 - 2 hours. An alpine classic. The exposure and situations on this route are the sort usually found only on much tougher peaks. The view across to the north face of the Petit Dru is particularly stunning.
Approach - Walk down the steps from the top station of the Grands Montets cable car to reach the Col des Grands Montets. Climb the glacier easily, initially on the left then turn back right, heading towards Les Drus. The Northwest Ridge is gained by traversing all the way across to where the glacier hits the ridge.
1) Cross the bergschrund (sometimes quite wide in late season) and climb the short 45 degree snow slope to reach the rocky ridge crest.
2) Stay just below the ridge crest on the north side and traverse across exposed snow before climbing up to the crest, just below a rock buttress, to a curved snow ridge.
3) Make an exposed 20m traverse around the rock buttress and then climb directly up to the ridge on 45 degree snow.
4) Scramble along the ridge crest for 20m then pass onto the Dru side of the ridge to reach the foot of the 10m crux wall.
5) 3a. Climb the wall (3a), and step left at the top and belay off slings. From here, 20m of easy scrambling leads to the summit.
Descent - Descend by the Northwest Ridge. The crux wall can be abseiled if needs be. From the foot of the crux wall it is possible to avoid the exposed snow traverse under the rock buttress by continuing along the ridge crest and then making 2 x 15m abseils to reach the curved snow ridge © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A classic introductory climb. Can be VERY crowded. Last rocky bit in the notch before the summit is "crux". Good views over Nant Blanc and Argentiere cirques. Useful for acclimatisation with a cafe at the end of the day. Approached via Grands Montets Telepherique.

A. Charlet and C Devouassoux 20/Mar/1927.

Ticklists

Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif , CUMC Ticklist , ROCKFAX Chamonix: Top 50 , Rosie's Broken Alpine Dreaming , Rosie's Broken Alpine Dreaming , Alpine Progression

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