II, 300m, 2 hours. A logical extension to the Northwest Ridge, this fine little route gives much more climbing than any other route on the peak but the terrain is more technical and the rock occasionally loose. For competent teams, it makes for an excellent day and really should see more traffic.
1) From the edge of the glacier, traverse 10m of low-angled, loose ground to reach the ridge itself at a small col, beneath a slabby tower.
2) Go around the tower on the right and then re-climb back to the ridge crest at another col which has a steep, tooth-like tower above it.
3) Turn the tower on the right and then step back left and follow a chossy ramp-line back onto the ridge crest.
4) Climb over two steeper steps, the first of which is 10m, the second is 25m, to a small col beneath a wide chimney.
5) 4a. The chimney defies grading to some extent but it isn't hard, just a bit traditional! Climb it and step right (4a) before coming back left. Nip over the boulder above the chimney and belay on good spikes beneath a steep, golden tower.
6) Turn the tower on the left to reach the col where the Northwest Ridge route begins. © Rockfax
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