300m, 10 pitches.
Approach: 1h, Descent: 90 min
Same approach and descent as – Della Rampa.
P1 (50 m, V+): Slab start, shaded & cold in the morning — warms you up quickly.
P2: Pleasant airy traverse, finish by moving up between two cracks.
P3: Easier; two short chimneys to a ledge, build belay.
P4: Essentially a belay move. Often linked with P3, but watch rope to avoid rockfall.
P5: Climb to next terrace. Build belay using two threads + piton (old pitons ~5 m left help locate spot).
P6: Diagonal crack trending right. Ignore crack on left with tat.
P7 (25 m): Two parallel cracks, short broken ground, belay below rough corner.
P8: Short corner, then slabs diagonally left to a terrace. Continue left to shared belay with Della Rampa. Linking with P7 not recommended.
P9: Crux. Diagonally right to piton, then up small roof (chalk up here), into awkward crack/chimney, slightly overhanging. Excellent pro. Sustained V+ above. Belay at intersection with Della Rampa before wide chimney.
P10 (~15 m): Up chimney to finish. Stunning 360° views
Summary
Protection on the whole route is good, but you shouldn’t skip opportunities to place gear, otherwise you might end up with long runouts. For the Dolomites, the rock quality here is outstanding. The line is logical and the route diagram is so detailed you’d struggle to get lost.
Same approach and descent as – Della Rampa.
P1 (50 m, V+): Slab start, shaded & cold in the morning — warms you up quickly.
P2: Pleasant airy traverse, finish by moving up between two cracks.
P3: Easier; two short chimneys to a ledge, build belay.
P4: Essentially a belay move. Often linked with P3, but watch rope to avoid rockfall.
P5: Climb to next terrace. Build belay using two threads + piton (old pitons ~5 m left help locate spot).
P6: Diagonal crack trending right. Ignore crack on left with tat.
P7 (25 m): Two parallel cracks, short broken ground, belay below rough corner.
P8: Short corner, then slabs diagonally left to a terrace. Continue left to shared belay with Della Rampa. Linking with P7 not recommended.
P9: Crux. Diagonally right to piton, then up small roof (chalk up here), into awkward crack/chimney, slightly overhanging. Excellent pro. Sustained V+ above. Belay at intersection with Della Rampa before wide chimney.
P10 (~15 m): Up chimney to finish. Stunning 360° views
Summary
Protection on the whole route is good, but you shouldn’t skip opportunities to place gear, otherwise you might end up with long runouts. For the Dolomites, the rock quality here is outstanding. The line is logical and the route diagram is so detailed you’d struggle to get lost.
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Route of Interest
Grande Muro Direct
Grade: VII ***
(Sas dla Crusc (Sasso della Croce))