UKC

18m.

Rockfax Description
The central line on the wall is often well-chalked and high in the grade; short climbers with fat fingers may want to claim an E3. Climb to the base of the steeper rock (wires to the right) and sprint up a flake to a deep slot. Step left and climb the tough thin crack to a triangular hole which takes a big nut. A final couple of long reaches/powerful pulls gain the top. © Rockfax

FA. Geoff Birtles 1975.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, London Wall Training List, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, World Graded List, 50 cracks to Squamish, Peak Rock/12/The New Golden Age, Ultimate E2 ticklist, 50 of the Best, Top 50 Peak Cracks, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond in 3 stars, Definitive *** Peak Grit, Rockfax Peak Gritstone East (2001) Top 50, Classic Lobs, DUMC Grit Gathering 2019, Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions, Proper Cracks UK, Post-lockdown Peak jamming hoedown, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List, Pete's Peak Treats, Big trad grit list, Eastern Grit Crack School - Part 2

Feedback

User Date Notes
steveb2006 30 Jul Show βeta
βeta: For all those that complain about the difficult finger jamming up the thin crack, I find it's easier to undercut it and reach up high on R for a flat hold. From there can reach L to triangular pod.
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βeta: For all those that complain about the difficult finger jamming up the thin crack, I find it's easier to undercut it and reach up high on R for a flat hold. From there can reach L to triangular pod.
PaulTanton 30 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Quite easy for us lanky types ????
βeta?
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βeta: Quite easy for us lanky types ????
MrJoshua 6 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Beware the bat in the big hold near the top.
βeta?
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βeta: Beware the bat in the big hold near the top.
Jemima Churchhouse 19 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: My beta for next time: Slab is a bit trickier than it looks, put gear in lower if possible. Peg, sprint up to slightly mediocre holds, lean out right to slot (red cam). Up the crack, big nut in the triangular hole. Took grey, but would probably take any. Left hand out to the pinch/ crimp, layback off that, step right foot through to hold. Don't touch the crappy left hand hold - go straight to the rail. Then, deep breath, and jump!
Show beta
βeta: My beta for next time: Slab is a bit trickier than it looks, put gear in lower if possible. Peg, sprint up to slightly mediocre holds, lean out right to slot (red cam). Up the crack, big nut in the triangular hole. Took grey, but would probably take any. Left hand out to the pinch/ crimp, layback off that, step right foot through to hold. Don't touch the crappy left hand hold - go straight to the rail. Then, deep breath, and jump!
ksjs 12 Aug, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: glad to hear that im not the only one to dyno for that edge (i think even if i could climb it in more controlled style id opt for the dyno - especially exciting after the pumpy crack). found it quite bold though not difficult lower down. a brilliant route, with some great moves throughout.
βeta?
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βeta: glad to hear that im not the only one to dyno for that edge (i think even if i could climb it in more controlled style id opt for the dyno - especially exciting after the pumpy crack). found it quite bold though not difficult lower down. a brilliant route, with some great moves throughout.
Martin Cleaver 16 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: amazing climb. tpo jug provides a huge smile after pumpy moves after the crack. woerth all threee stars
βeta?
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βeta: amazing climb. tpo jug provides a huge smile after pumpy moves after the crack. woerth all threee stars
shane ohly 2 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: come on Matt, its the other way round. Billy Wizz E2 and Boulevard E3!
βeta?
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βeta: come on Matt, its the other way round. Billy Wizz E2 and Boulevard E3!
MattH 2 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Billy Whizz = E3 Boulevard = E2 No argument. Both fantastic routes. Just a shame the headwall doesn't start off vertical at the lake...
βeta?
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βeta: Billy Whizz = E3 Boulevard = E2 No argument. Both fantastic routes. Just a shame the headwall doesn't start off vertical at the lake...
UKB Shark 23 Nov, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I have led Billy Whizz and Boulevard a couple of times and this weekend followed Billy Whizz then top roped Boulevard in quick succession. I thought the climbing was similarly hard on both. As they are both well protected from good shakeouts and Boulevard is rated as hard for E3 (even given E4 in one guide) this must put Billy Whizz squarely in the E3 camp - especially so for the short.
βeta?
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βeta: I have led Billy Whizz and Boulevard a couple of times and this weekend followed Billy Whizz then top roped Boulevard in quick succession. I thought the climbing was similarly hard on both. As they are both well protected from good shakeouts and Boulevard is rated as hard for E3 (even given E4 in one guide) this must put Billy Whizz squarely in the E3 camp - especially so for the short.
drcorbasisgod 7 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Did anyone else find the final 'reach' a bit more like a dyno?
βeta?
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βeta: Did anyone else find the final 'reach' a bit more like a dyno?
Ropeboy 17 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I think this is E3 for the on-sight, the gear is good but it is very pumpy and the E grade represents the effort for a flash. Feels much easier once you know the moves.
βeta?
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βeta: I think this is E3 for the on-sight, the gear is good but it is very pumpy and the E grade represents the effort for a flash. Feels much easier once you know the moves.
bigphil 26 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: A great, technical, sustained route with solid protection. Definately E2, never E3.
βeta?
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βeta: A great, technical, sustained route with solid protection. Definately E2, never E3.
Justin Shiels 24 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Nice photo but pity you cant see Billy Whizz on it!
βeta?
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βeta: Nice photo but pity you cant see Billy Whizz on it!
Justin Shiels 24 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Top diagonal crack can be damp but even if not it must be E3. Certainly harder than Boulevard.
βeta?
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βeta: Top diagonal crack can be damp but even if not it must be E3. Certainly harder than Boulevard.
Nick Smith - Climbers 24 Apr, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Pumpy, pumpy, pumpy! The thin crack is desperately hard work, with the crux move getting to the second of the the small edges above. Fabulous :-)
βeta?
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βeta: Pumpy, pumpy, pumpy! The thin crack is desperately hard work, with the crux move getting to the second of the the small edges above. Fabulous :-)

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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 136
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 128
Votes cast 121
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Brown's Eliminate

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Froggatt Edge)
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