UKC

24m.

Rockfax Description
Altogether a better way up the wall. Climb Red Wall to the sandy ledge/stance. Traverse the delicate wall on the left all the way to the arete, on a continuously surprising set of holds, for a superbly exposed finale. © Rockfax

FA. Don Morrison 1956.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Northern Peak Grit 100 VD - VS, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Peak Rock/7/8/Biven-Peck Partnership/1950's a Developing Decade, Chatsworth to Bamford, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond in 3 stars, Definitive *** Peak Grit, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS), Lawrencefield, DUMC Grit Gathering 2019, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List, To do, LD's next grit trip(s)

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User Date Notes
simondgee 5 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The arete after traverse does take good gear in the small letterbox...Rock 5 camming at left end and a 0.5 friend is bomber at RH edge.
 
Show beta
βeta: The arete after traverse does take good gear in the small letterbox...Rock 5 camming at left end and a 0.5 friend is bomber at RH edge.
roger whetton 18 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: The flake at the far end of the traverse used to give a gear placement (though perhaps not as good as one might have thought!). Without it the climbing is scarcely harder but unless you are carrying small cams its certainly more thought provoking.
βeta?
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βeta: The flake at the far end of the traverse used to give a gear placement (though perhaps not as good as one might have thought!). Without it the climbing is scarcely harder but unless you are carrying small cams its certainly more thought provoking.
Simon Caldwell 15 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic route. Hard boulder problem start, VS 4c to the sandy ledge (though the last moves to the ledge are much harder if you're short, at least 5a), then VS 4b on the traverse which is unprotected from the crack of the Direct to the top of the arete. The flake at the far end of the traverse (which might have been a gear placement) has very recently come off.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Fantastic route. Hard boulder problem start, VS 4c to the sandy ledge (though the last moves to the ledge are much harder if you're short, at least 5a), then VS 4b on the traverse which is unprotected from the crack of the Direct to the top of the arete. The flake at the far end of the traverse (which might have been a gear placement) has very recently come off.
shaun walby 27 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Has you wondering where the holds are when you look up at it, but they come just where you need them. The final arete is a joy.
βeta?
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βeta: Has you wondering where the holds are when you look up at it, but they come just where you need them. The final arete is a joy.
Gripped 21 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Tricky start then an airy finish on great holds. Very enjoyable.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Tricky start then an airy finish on great holds. Very enjoyable.

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 109
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 102
Votes cast 109
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Lean Man's Climb

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Black Rocks)
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