Dates: 28 April to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
2023 update: There are Kestrels nesting in Cascara Crack again this year. The restriction applies to Cascara Crack to SAE inclusive.
For Pulpit Groove and Suspense/etc please either top out or belay back in the trees away from the edge of the ledge to help avoid disturbing the birds.
Rockfax Description
Altogether a better way up the wall. Climb Red Wall to the sandy ledge/stance. Traverse the delicate wall on the left all the way to the arete, on a continuously surprising set of holds, for a superbly exposed finale. © Rockfax
FA. Don Morrison 1956.
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , Northern Peak Grit 100 VD - VS , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Peak Rock/7/8/Biven-Peck Partnership/1950's a Developing Decade , Chatsworth to Bamford , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond in 3 stars , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Lawrencefield , DUMC Grit Gathering 2019 , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , LD's next grit trip(s) , Eastern Grit Wishlist , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 VS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Roland stopps | 6 Jun, 2021 |
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βeta: Really good ???? | βeta? | |
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βeta: Really good ???? |
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simondgee | 5 Aug, 2019 |
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βeta: The arete after traverse does take good gear in the small letterbox...Rock 5 camming at left end and a 0.5 friend is bomber at RH edge. | ||
Show beta
βeta: The arete after traverse does take good gear in the small letterbox...Rock 5 camming at left end and a 0.5 friend is bomber at RH edge. |
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roger whetton | 18 Apr, 2005 |
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βeta: The flake at the far end of the traverse used to give a gear placement (though perhaps not as good as one might have thought!). Without it the climbing is scarcely harder but unless you are carrying small cams its certainly more thought provoking. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The flake at the far end of the traverse used to give a gear placement (though perhaps not as good as one might have thought!). Without it the climbing is scarcely harder but unless you are carrying small cams its certainly more thought provoking. |
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Simon Caldwell | 15 Nov, 2004 |
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βeta: Fantastic route. Hard boulder problem start, VS 4c to the sandy ledge (though the last moves to the ledge are much harder if you're short, at least 5a), then VS 4b on the traverse which is unprotected from the crack of the Direct to the top of the arete. The flake at the far end of the traverse (which might have been a gear placement) has very recently come off. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Fantastic route. Hard boulder problem start, VS 4c to the sandy ledge (though the last moves to the ledge are much harder if you're short, at least 5a), then VS 4b on the traverse which is unprotected from the crack of the Direct to the top of the arete. The flake at the far end of the traverse (which might have been a gear placement) has very recently come off. |
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shaun walby | 27 Jul, 2004 |
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βeta: Has you wondering where the holds are when you look up at it, but they come just where you need them. The final arete is a joy. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Has you wondering where the holds are when you look up at it, but they come just where you need them. The final arete is a joy. |
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Gripped | 21 Apr, 2004 |
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βeta: Tricky start then an airy finish on great holds. Very enjoyable. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Tricky start then an airy finish on great holds. Very enjoyable. |
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Grade: VS 4c ***
(Dovedale)