UKC

550m.

Rockfax Description
III, 800m, 6 -7 hours. A magnificent mixed traverse that is a serious undertaking.
Approach - From the Refuge du Couvercle, traverse scree, rock slabs and snow towards the Jardin de Talèfre (a large rock buttress in the middle of the Glacier de Talèfre) and pass under this. Once level with the Col des Droites, cut up directly to the snow slope at the start of the route.
1) Climb the 400m long, 40 degree snow slope and cut right at the top to go up a short couloir that gives direct access to the Col de la Tour des Courtes.
2) Follow the wide snowy ridge to the summit (turning the rock buttress halfway up on the left). Although most of this is low angled (roughly 30 degrees), it is stunning, with huge views across pretty much the whole of the Mont Blanc Massif. In good conditions, it should take roughly 5 hours from hut to summit.
3) 4b. Go down the snow ridge leading from the summit to the Aiguille Chenavier. Climb this (4b) and then make a 30m abseil down a chimney on the Talèfre side of the peak.
4) Stay on the Talèfre side of the ridge and traverse across mixed ground to pass under the Aiguille Croulante. Get back onto the ridge just past this and follow a narrow snow arête to the foot of the Aiguille Qui Remue.
5) Go onto the Argentière side of the ridge and traverse underneath the Aiguille Qui Remue, then return onto the crest once past it.
6) Follow the ridge to a sharp rock tooth, 50m above the Col des Cristaux.
Descent - Downclimb 30 - 40 degree snow and mixed ground, drifting gradually right (when facing down) to reach the Glacier des Courtes at the foot of the couloir that comes down from the Aiguille Croulante. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Significantly more difficult and involved than the PD+ grade suggests. Aptly described by one individual as "one of the most convoluted and complicated PDs I have ever done" - great though!

Ticklists

Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif , Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif , Big Routes , Alpine Dreamz , Alpine Progression , Alps 22

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Style of Ascent
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Route of Interest
Southeast Ridge

Grade: AD 4c ***
(Aiguilles Rouges)

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