Rockfax Description
III, 800m, 6 - 7 hours. A magnificent mixed traverse that is a serious undertaking.
1) Climb the 400m long, 40 degree snow slope and cut right at the top to go up a short couloir that gives direct access to the Col de la Tour des Courtes.
2) Follow the wide snowy ridge to the summit (turning the rock buttress halfway up on the left). Although most of this is low angled (roughly 30 degrees), it is stunning, with huge views across pretty much the whole of the Mont Blanc massif. In good conditions, it should take roughly 5 hours from hut to summit.
3) 4b. Go down the snow ridge leading from the summit to the Aiguille Chenavier. Climb this (4b) and then make a 30m abseil down a chimney on the Talèfre side of the peak.
4) Stay on the Talèfre side of the ridge and traverse across mixed ground to pass under the Aiguille Croulante. Get back onto the ridge just past this and follow a narrow snow arête to the foot of the Aiguille Qui Remue.
5) Go onto the Argentière side of the ridge and traverse underneath the Aiguille Qui Remue, then return onto the crest once past it.
6) Follow the ridge to a sharp rock tooth, 50m above the Col des Cristaux and the start of the descent. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Significantly more difficult and involved than the PD+ grade suggests. Aptly described by one individual as "one of the most convoluted and complicated PDs I have ever done" - great though!


Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif , Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif , Big Routes , Alpine Dreamz , Alpine Progression , BMC - Easier Classics in the Mont Blanc Range , Top quality Alps under 4000m , Cham Sep 24


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Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
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Route of Interest
Arete des Cosmiques

Grade: AD 3 ***
(Aiguille du Midi)

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