Rockfax Description
IV, 850m, 6 - 8 hours. A popular, long route which takes a great line onto a great summit. A good choice for those wanting to test themselves on a long route without committing to one of the routes on the north face.
Approach - From the Refuge d'Argentière, descend back to the Glacier d'Argentière and head directly to the foot of the Tournier Spur. All the routes are reached from here (don't try to go directly to the Lagarde, there is a large crevasse field barring it).
1) Cross the bergschrund and climb a short snow slope to an 80 degree ice pitch.
2) Lower angled ice leads to a belay on the right below another steep section.
3) Climb the 85 degree ice on the left and then 100m of 60 degree snow to reach the Lagarde Couloir proper.
4) Follow the couloir for 300m of 50 degree snow. For the final 100m to the top it steepens to around 65 degrees and tackles mixed ground to reach the final snow ridge on the Tournier Spur. Follow this to the summit of Les Droites.
Descent - The Lagarde Couloir Direct can normally be abseiled on a combination of fixed anchors and Abalakov threads. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
IV 4+

Walter Cecchinel & Claude Jager.


Alpine Grande Courses, Big Alpine Routes


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Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
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Route of Interest

South Face

Grade: TD ***
(Dent du Geant)
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