Rockfax Description
III, 185m. One of the most famous mixed routes on the Tacul's east face, this is a true winter gem. The climbing is superb and the ambiance amazing. The bergschrund is straightforward but can be wide in late season. The couloir itself is usually (depending on snow cover) around 55 degrees all the way but steepens gradually for the final 100m. Depending on conditions it may be worth pitching the final section if time allows. The first proper belay is on the right, just out of the fall line from the first technical pitch.
1) 3, 40m. Traverse left and climb the 70 degree ice gully and belay on the left beneath another, marginally steeper gully.
2) 3+, 30m. Stay left and continue up the ice gully, trying not to knock down too much onto your partner and/or other climbers - the gully makes a perfect funnel.
3) 4, 30m. The gully kicks up to close to vertical before easing off to reach a snow slope. Belay at the foot of this.
4) 2, 40m. Climb the snow slope easily, passing a couple of optional intermediate belays.
5) 4+, 45m. The crux of this one is where it should be on every route - at the top! Follow the gully up some steep and sometimes thin ice to a belay on the right, overlooking the snow slope on pitch 4.
Descent - Abseil on fixed anchors preferably on 2 x 60m ropes but there are other belays if required. It is possible to continue over moderate mixed ground to reach the summit of the Tacul and descend Mont Blanc du Tacul North Face but, even without the skis, most still abseil. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
This gully is the the classic East face route of the Tacul. About 500m to the top of the main difficulties (where most people abseil off - fixed belays), about 700m to the top.

Jean-Pierre Albinoni, Patrick Gabarrou 04/Jul/1974

Ticklists: Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif, 10 Routes to Climb in Chamonix in Winter.

joe.91 06/Apr/17 AltLd O/S

Slightly late start meant a slog up the gully, good few pitches but the ski descent was interesting in very crusty snow. Missed the last train by 30 mins, long walk down back to town...

Little AndyH 06/Apr/17 AltLd
with joe.91
7toes 20/Apr/16 2nd
Hidden 25/Mar/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/Mar/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21/Mar/16 AltLd rpt
kelly_426 ?/Jan/16 -
with tom redmond, LDudill
Hidden ??/2016 -
Hidden 17/May/15 AltLd
Hidden 29/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
Davesmith1981 12/Apr/15 AltLd
with neil phillips
jimmatthews 10/Apr/15 Lead dnf

Climbed quick, but not enough time between the Midi breaking down and the last montenvers train. Got to below the last (crux) pitch.

with Gumery
Gumery 10/Apr/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 14/Mar/15 2nd O/S
Graeme Barr 14/Mar/15 Lead

Had route to ourselves!

Andy Lagan 11/Mar/15 AltLd O/S
QuentinSu 20/Feb/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/Oct/14 AltLd dnf
Hidden 19/Oct/14 AltLd
Hidden 19/Oct/14 AltLd
bandersnatch 10/Oct/14 AltLd O/S
wi11 01/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

Moved together. In good condition

with frost
frost ?/Oct/14 -
with will hardy
Hidden 07/Apr/14 AltLd
Hidden 02/Apr/14 Lead
Grant Fulton ?/Apr/14 AltLd
with Matt
Hidden 21/Mar/14 AltLd
chapmand 21/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
edek_w 20/Mar/14 -
with Blazej
Paul Figg 20/Mar/14 AltLd

With Lawrence and Andy, great route.

with Andy Brown, Lawrence Monckton
Alasdair Fulton 18/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

Great fun, a bit busy.

Ross Barnes 18/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14/Mar/14 AltLd
Hidden 14/Mar/14 AltLd dnf
James Thacker ??/2014 -
Hidden 08/Oct/13 AltLd O/S
Rhys Macallister 08/Mar/13 AltLd
with anders
Ly-Cilph 06/Apr/12 AltLd dnf

Partner became ill with AMS and so had to turn back after about two-thirds... darn. Gorgeous setting though! And very, very busy.

with Piet W
Big Lee 27/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

Good conditions, although the ice was a little thin for optimal screw protection in places. Very stepped out and felt easy as a result. Also very busy. At one point there were three teams on one belay. One of which pulled there ab rope down as I started to lead off resulting in their rope ending up wrapped around my neck with rope burn.

mikeyjbs 27/Mar/12 AltLd
with Big Lee
liamo333 16/Jan/12 -
dswansonlow 25/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
with sarp
sarpedon 25/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
with dougie swanson-low
Hidden 13/Apr/11 AltLd
Will_he_fall 13/Apr/11 AltLd
with Aly
Hidden 10/Apr/11 Lead
stuart34 01/Feb/11 AltLd O/S

Awesome route, needed 60m ropes for the first few ab's.

with Martin
smithaldo ?/Feb/11 AltLd O/S

lovely route, intro slope alot longer than expected and 11 abseils as well! hooked to devilry but great views from the belays. First winter alpine route.

with mark j
Hidden ?/Mar/10 AltLd
keith leonard ??/2010 AltLd
Dave Searle ??/2010 -
Hidden 15/Sep/08 AltLd
mike.moss ?/Feb/08 AltLd O/S
with Kane Chandler
James Gordon ?/Jan/08 -
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd
Brian Birtle 10/Jan/06 2nd

Got past four of the technical pitches before reaching our turn-around time. Nice climb!

with Nuno
David Horwood 06/Apr/05 -
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides ?/Mar/99 AltLd
with Mark Harris
stokesrees ??/1997 AltLd
with Asmus Norveslet
crossleysm ?/Mar/95 -

with Neil

Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ?/Jun/94 AltLd
Hidden ?/Mar/93 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Feb/89 -
GaryK ?/Dec/88 AltLd O/S
with Andy Cave
GaryK ?/Dec/88 AltLd O/S

A good route. The days were very short and we descended the normal route in the dark and a quite strong wind, which had been blowing all day. There was quite a lot of spindrift blowing around on the route.

with Andy Cave
Hidden ?/Jan/79 -
35 users have this on their wishlist
High TD+
Mid TD+
Low TD+
High TD
Mid TD
Low TD
High TD-
Mid TD-
Low TD-
Votes cast 6
Votes cast 8
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set