V, 1200m, 2 days. A toughie and just maybe the overall toughest route in this book, with its combination of difficult rock and difficult ice climbing. The length of the route also means that a bivouac is almost inevitable, adding to the weight of your bag and making life even trickier! Start at the toe of the buttress.Approach - From the Refuge d'Argentière, descend back to the Glacier d'Argentière and head directly to the foot of the Tournier Spur. All the routes are reached from here.1) 5a. Follow the right-leaning chimney (5a) to a long, horizontal ledge and follow this rightwards for 30m to a vague ramp leading back left.2) 5c. Climb this easily to where it begins to overhang. Pull through the overhang (5c) and follow easier, blocky ground to the ridge crest.3) 5a. Continue up the ridge crest over blocky ground (4c - 5a) for 4 pitches to where the ridge hits a steep, 10m high grey wall shortly after a wide chimney. Make a rising 20m traverse rightwards then rejoin the ridge by climbing a 20m chimney (4c).4) 5a. Follow the ridge crest directly (5a), making short detours off to each side, to reach the foot of an overhanging face.5) 5c. Step onto the left side of the ridge and to climb a corner in two pitches (4c then 5c) to regain the ridge crest.6) Continue along the ridge to a steep buttress split by a wide crack. Move right around this and then return to the ridge crest.7) Follow this to the brèche at 3407m, moving right around any difficulties.From the brèche, follow the Tournier Spur to the summit.Descent - Descend the south face of Les Droites into the Talèfre Basin. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Also called Northeast Spur Direct.
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