UKC

On the boulder wall at the right side, start from the obvious big jug in the corner (last hold for Sloper Lip Traverse) and move to a good crimp in the obvious main break, then switch hands and make a big move to the scooped slopey ledge and cross over. From here, reach across to a crimp side pull to get wide and low feet, then reverse that right hand back into a crimp/gaston and make a hard move to cross over with the left hand to another crimp/gaston. From the double crossed gaston extend the right foot again to get an even wider stance and make a powerful move to a small pocket with the right hand. Once gained, bump the left foot across to switch feet and step up to a good ledge with the right, to then make a difficult move to the gain the big vertical crack to finish.

An eliminate but it does climb the main clean middle section between the breaks to make a fine and fairly powerful problem, without using any of the easier underclings beneath or above the break, or roof jugs near the crack. All feet are in but clever switching, bumping and flagging are keys to unlock the puzzle.

An "any hold goes" traverse of this bit of the wall goes at 6b.

Craig MacLeod 17/Jan/2021.

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Voting
High f7B
Mid f7B
Low f7B
High f7A+
Mid f7A+
Low f7A+
High f7A
Mid f7A
Low f7A
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 4
Style of Ascent
Bouldered
Lead
Not Set
Redpoint
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Keep it Unreal

Grade: f7A+ ***
(Glen Lednock Boulders)

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