UKC Logbook - 'Carillo-Cantabella'

200m, 6 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A popular classic taking a line up the disjointed grooves on the left side of the central section of the face. There are better routes to the right but this is still a good introduction to the cliff. The route is well bolted and sees plenty of traffic. Start left of the toe of the buttress at a right-trending groove.
1) 4+, 40m. Climb the ramp rightwards past a cave to a ledge.
2) 5+, 35m. Trend left to a groove and up this to a tree. The crux is harder than anything else on the climb but is easily friggable.
3) 4+, 35m. Climb the groove above then the pillar on the right.
4) 4+, 35m. Trend left then follow cracks to a niche.
5) 5+, 50m. Traverse right across the face then climb a groove eventually passing an old stance to an easier finish © Rockfax

FA. Juan Carrillo, Mariano Cantabella 1970s 1975.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Costa Blanca: Top 50 , Costa B , Costa Blanca 2022

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User	Date		Notes
BStar	5 Jan	Show βeta βeta: A little tricky to find the start, route is to the right of America (which in turn is to the right of Espolon Terray). Grades per pitch are a little off, crux on P2 is polished and around 6a/6a+, but this is very well bolted and easily frig-able. 5 pitches total, bolted stances but no lower offs. Generally well bolted, P1 contains a couple of old pitons. There's a fair bit of loose rock, generally OK but climb with care. Walk off is fine, half way down the gully head right (as you look down) to a steel cable that takes you to the shoulder of the right bounding gully wall. Follow cairns to the path.
Show beta βeta: A little tricky to find the start, route is to the right of America (which in turn is to the right of Espolon Terray). Grades per pitch are a little off, crux on P2 is polished and around 6a/6a+, but this is very well bolted and easily frig-able. 5 pitches total, bolted stances but no lower offs. Generally well bolted, P1 contains a couple of old pitons. There's a fair bit of loose rock, generally OK but climb with care. Walk off is fine, half way down the gully head right (as you look down) to a steel cable that takes you to the shoulder of the right bounding gully wall. Follow cairns to the path.
Steve Woollard	19 Dec, 2023	Show βeta βeta: Local blog gives it as 5+,6a+,4+,5+ 6a, but this seems a bit generous ?	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Local blog gives it as 5+,6a+,4+,5+ 6a, but this seems a bit generous ?
Mike Shamash	30 Jan, 2013	Show βeta βeta: Great route ... there maybe a 6a move on it as local guide says. but 5+ is what I'd give it. Its one of the most popular routes on the crag - so I'd advise people to buy the local guide (or look at someone elses) - there are about 100 routes on the main face.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Great route ... there maybe a 6a move on it as local guide says. but 5+ is what I'd give it. Its one of the most popular routes on the crag - so I'd advise people to buy the local guide (or look at someone elses) - there are about 100 routes on the main face.
john yates	16 Dec, 2006	Show βeta βeta: Agree there is no belay on top of pitch five and thi and the last one are easily run together. the rib on pitch three is over to the right and not the left as described.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Agree there is no belay on top of pitch five and thi and the last one are easily run together. the rib on pitch three is over to the right and not the left as described.
liam	2 Nov, 2006	Show βeta βeta: Fantastic route very well bolted. The last 2 pitches must have been combined cos the 2nd to last belay isnt there.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Fantastic route very well bolted. The last 2 pitches must have been combined cos the 2nd to last belay isnt there.
Swig	5 Apr, 2005	Show βeta βeta: Good route and very well bolted. Couldn't find a belay at the end of pitch 5. Ran P5 and P6 together. The locals ahead of us did the same.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Good route and very well bolted. Couldn't find a belay at the end of pitch 5. Ran P5 and P6 together. The locals ahead of us did the same.