A popular classic taking a line up the disjointed grooves on the left side of the central section of the face. There are better routes to the right but this is still a good introduction to the cliff. The route is well bolted and sees plenty of traffic. Start left of the toe of the buttress at a right-trending groove.1) 4+, 40m. Climb the ramp rightwards past a cave to a ledge.2) 5+, 35m. Trend left to a groove and up this to a tree. The crux is harder than anything else on the climb but is easily friggable.3) 4+, 35m. Climb the groove above then the pillar on the right.4) 4+, 35m. Trend left then follow cracks to a niche.5) 5+, 50m. Traverse right across the face then climb a groove eventually passing an old stance to an easier finish © Rockfax
FA. Juan Carrillo, Mariano Cantabella 1970s 1975.
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