Rockfax Description
The first route to breach the main wall at Leyva takes a direct line up the cliff finishing up a curving groove near the top. 1) 5+, 40m. Follow the left-trending ramp, with the odd tricky move, to the top of the tower.2) 6a+, 35m. Climb the double corner (loose) then the better wall above to a stance on a big block.3) 6b, 40m. Climb to a ledge then diagonally left to the base of a developing groove - up this to a good stance. On the first ascent the route traversed left for a bivvi in a chimney and then went direct to the base of the groove.4) 6a+, 50m. Follow the curving groove to its top then climb up and right along a ramp and up slabs to the top.4a) 5, 50m. Traverse left across the slab into the long groove and follow this (loose in places) past at least one possible stance, to the top. © Rockfax
FA. Miguel Garcia Gallego, Juan Carrillo Olmos 1970.
100 Spanish multi-pitch classics
User | Date | Notes | ||
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purple sue | 24 Apr, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Set of cams useful as long runnouts on all pitches except the 6b ( which we did direct, dogged) The 6b pitch is a bit of a sandbag. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Set of cams useful as long runnouts on all pitches except the 6b ( which we did direct, dogged) The 6b pitch is a bit of a sandbag. |
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Grade: 6b ***
(Mula)