Climbs 111
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 130m a.s.l
Faces E

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Food for Parasites F7a+ © Reynish

Crag features

Llanbradach quarry is the second largest sandstone quarry in southeast Wales and has the number of routes to match. It also has the biggest routes on sandstone to date - two-pitch routes up to a height of 50m. However, Llanbradach is not a place for those of an unadventurous nature as the wooded lower quarry is a bit of a jungle and the walls are dominated by vegetation, apart from the Expansionist Wall which penetrates the tree canopy. The Upper Tier has some good routes but they have seen little attention in recent years, and many will need a good clean before an ascent. All the routes have good fixed gear and lower-offs - they just need some TLC.

Please contact the crag moderator if you have any concerns about bolts or other fixed protection.

Approach notes

Follow the A469 north from Caerphilly, taking the first exit off the roundabout signposted for Llanbradach. Park on right after traffic calming chicane.
Walk back along road and follow path up under the railway line. Turn left along a track.
Access to the lower tier is on the right, following a good path along the edge of the pool to reach the Luxury Walls.
To access the upper tier, climb over a metal gate at the end of the track. Continue on for around 100m, until you reach a gently inclined path on the right. Follow this path until it levels out and wander to the left until you reach the first routes of the upper tier.

Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Reports suggest peregrine are nesting on the upper tier - please avoid climbing here during the above dates.

As of 17th May 2015, routes between "Sadness" and "Internal Reflection" on Pool Wall cleared of brambles and cleaned. Also cleared foliage and brambles on the Upper Tier between "Aptitude Test" and "Incidentally". "You Are What You Is" cleaned and brushed so get on it before the jungle returns. "Aptitude Test" and "Merthyr Infill" currently do not have a safe anchor - traverse awkwardly to the anchor of "My Blue Bell".
nikgoile - 19/May/15
The upper tier is currently heavily overgrown with ferns and midges everywhere! I plan to go cut them all down as it isnt very enjoyable to be up there. From my experience this summer you need quite a long period of dry weather before routes are dry enough
rhys mence - 04/Sep/12
Not impressed. Crumbly rock and lots of biting midges.
Tomar - 03/May/11
Was there last night, Be aware of a Wasp nest at the base of the decent from the upper tier on the left its in amongst the old trees that have fallen down. They were less than best pleased when one of our party crossed over them!!!
Mark Batey - 16/Jul/09
no way I'm actually unlucky enough to be from Llanbradach cant believe that i lived there for 20 yrs and never ever found this gem, Dont Leave Anything in Your Car!
uriel - 06/Aug/04
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Climbs at this crag

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