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Climbs 88
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 94m a.s.l
Faces NE

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The things we do to avoid the rain... © JHC

Crag features

Quality sport routes of a variety of grades, styles and angles. This popular location provides five distinct sectors of genuine contrast. The Forgotten Sun Sector has over a score of worthwhile low and mid-grade routes: some wall climbs, some steeper. Round to the left is an area of steeper, whiter walls and the eponymous 'Cave', both clearly visible from the A55. This Main Cave Sector has some fine wall climbs from 6b to 7c+, plus some funky routes within the depths of the cave itself. KO Wall, Golf Ball Wall and Tower Buttress provide some fine additions to the area.

Approach notes

Exit the A55 at junction 23 Llanddulas. Follow the A547 eastwards through Llanddulas (direction Abergele) passing a village hall that looks like a church; 550m beyond the hall, turn right into Rhyd-y-foel Road. After 300m, pass a small grassy triangle at an intersection - carry straight on a further 100m and turn right into Ffordd Newydd/New Road. Park with consideration for local residents being sure not to block any driveways.

There is plenty of alternative parking if there are already several cars here: either at the car park near the beach (by the excellent Tides Cafe) gained via Beach House Road opposite Rhyd-y-foel Road, or on Beulah Avenue gained by turning right at the village hall.

Ko wall small rock fall yesterday
Slipknot_olly - 17/May/14
one of the bolt hangers holding up the sling on doomside up/upside doom has come off. not sure if the bolt has just loosened off or something. but anyway makes for a slightly harder catch and more interesting catch now!
tom290483 - 08/Apr/12
Personally I think Llanddulas Cave is better than Castle Inn. There's far more to go at and you almost always have it to yourself. Ground Up Publishing will be releasing a mini guide to the A55 crags towards the end of the year/early next year, which will include Llanddulas Cave.
Glyn Davidson - 28/Aug/09
I heard recently about some "new Llanddulas routes", I thought that perhaps someone had rediscovered Craig Y Forwen rather than anything more on Llanddulas Cave but it seems I was wrong. Is there an on-line topo to these new "mid-grade routes", F5's and F6's? I sure havn't missed a 3rd North Wales Limestone RockFax or mini-guide. Maybe it's time I went for a walk.
JimmAwelon - 25/Mar/08
majority of the lines have been bolted, aroudn the front part of the cave there are some trad lines still around. The crag is in the Rockfax North Wales limestone guide. The quarried face does not run like normal rock and gives some quite interesting climbing, although castle in in Llysfaen 5 minutes down the road is a much better crag if your in the area.
nicholas Barrowclough - 24/Mar/04
What do you mean it's been bolted? Has it all been bolted? When I was there there was quite some adventure to be had. It was good fun back in them days, perhaps it would be worth another visit sometime. Hopefully, it's still as quiet as it used to be.
Al Urker - 27/Jan/04
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Climbs at this crag

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