UKC

Climbs 88
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 94m a.s.l
Faces NE

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The things we do to avoid the rain... © JHC

Crag features

Quality sport routes of a variety of grades, styles and angles. This popular location provides five distinct sectors of genuine contrast. The Forgotten Sun Sector has over a score of worthwhile low and mid-grade routes: some wall climbs, some steeper. Round to the left is an area of steeper, whiter walls and the eponymous 'Cave', both clearly visible from the A55. This Main Cave Sector has some fine wall climbs from 6b to 7c+, plus some funky routes within the depths of the cave itself. KO Wall, Golf Ball Wall and Tower Buttress provide some fine additions to the area.

Approach notes

Exit the A55 at junction 23 Llanddulas. Follow the A547 eastwards through Llanddulas (direction Abergele) passing a village hall that looks like a church; 550m beyond the hall, turn left towards the 'Beach Caravan Park' by the excellent Tides Cafe. From the parking, walk back up to the main road and go straight across and up Rhyd-d-Foel Road. Go up here until opposite New Road and walk up leftwards to the crag. Alternative parking is available in Belulah Avenue which is the next road to the west from Rhyd-y-Foel.

Access Advice

There have been a number of complaints from local residents regarding climbers parking and creating obstructions to local residents along Ffordd Newydd/New Road. To avoid problems please park down at the beach parking or in Belulah Avenue.

Updated by UKC: 8th March
Ko wall small rock fall yesterday
Slipknot_olly - 17/May/14
one of the bolt hangers holding up the sling on doomside up/upside doom has come off. not sure if the bolt has just loosened off or something. but anyway makes for a slightly harder catch and more interesting catch now!
tom290483 - 08/Apr/12
Personally I think Llanddulas Cave is better than Castle Inn. There's far more to go at and you almost always have it to yourself. Ground Up Publishing will be releasing a mini guide to the A55 crags towards the end of the year/early next year, which will include Llanddulas Cave.
Glyn Davidson - 28/Aug/09
I heard recently about some "new Llanddulas routes", I thought that perhaps someone had rediscovered Craig Y Forwen rather than anything more on Llanddulas Cave but it seems I was wrong. Is there an on-line topo to these new "mid-grade routes", F5's and F6's? I sure havn't missed a 3rd North Wales Limestone RockFax or mini-guide. Maybe it's time I went for a walk.
JimmAwelon - 25/Mar/08
majority of the lines have been bolted, aroudn the front part of the cave there are some trad lines still around. The crag is in the Rockfax North Wales limestone guide. The quarried face does not run like normal rock and gives some quite interesting climbing, although castle in in Llysfaen 5 minutes down the road is a much better crag if your in the area.
nicholas Barrowclough - 24/Mar/04
What do you mean it's been bolted? Has it all been bolted? When I was there there was quite some adventure to be had. It was good fun back in them days, perhaps it would be worth another visit sometime. Hopefully, it's still as quiet as it used to be.
Al Urker - 27/Jan/04
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Climbs at this crag

Name Grade Stars Type Logs Partner Ascents
These climbs you have climbed clean.
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by a UKC volunteer michael burrows

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