Rockfax Description
A stunning and totally mind-blowing line taking the groove in the steep arete. Start as for The Groove.
1) and 2) As for The Groove.
3) 6a, 40m. Move left and go up to a peg. Go up again and slightly left to a hole. Some scary bridging up the groove leads to the first overhang. Move right around this into a crack, peg. Carry on up the still-sustained groove on the right past another roof and go up to a peg. Climb the tapering groove to where you can move right to good holds where the angle relents. Head up for a few more metres to a sorry collection of pegs and traverse right to a better belay.
4) 4c, 22m. Move back left to the arete and follow it in a splendid position to the belay below the crevasse on The Groove.
5) 4a, 40m. As for The Groove. © Rockfax


North Wales Rock Graded List, UK Lonely Leads, Fast & Free: Pete Livesay's Top 30 British Classics, Ultimate E5 ticklist, Rab 'Pocket a Prize' Competition: Cal's 'Alpine Feel' Climbs


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High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 11
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 9
Votes cast 9
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Route of Interest

Wanton Desire

Grade: E5 6a ***
(Craig Doris)
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