55m, 2 pitches. A good excursion with a finely positioned belay, more worthwhile than it was given credit for in past guide books. Negotiating the curved runnel on P2 is perhaps the climbing highlight. Soil and vegetation obscuring key holds is a bit of an issue, but most of it has been given a tidy-up in recent years and importantly the belay is safe, with two low corrosion pegs, an in-situ thread and a good cam placement. The finishing scramble up grassy terrain gets the thumbs down, but it's all part of the territory....

FA. P.Littlejohn, E.Grindley 01/Nov/1969.


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High E1
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High HVS
High VS
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High 5b
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High 5a
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High 4c
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Route of Interest

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Berry Head - The Old Redoubt)

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