35m.
Good climbing. The 5b method is not easy to find and protection on the crux is a bit devious (beta in feedback). Step up on to the ramp right of Back in the EFL and immediately head slightly left to gain and follow the cracks that run through the middle of the lower overlaps. Continue to the main quartz band and pull rightwards through it to a big foothold at the right edge of the headwall. Move up and left (crux) to stand at the base of the right wall of a shallow, right-facing groove in the headwall. Pull steeply through the overlap above and finish easily up slabs.
H L Walmsley, C Calow 18/Aug/2025.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| harold walmsley | 25 Aug |
Show βeta
βeta: Protection for the crux is fairly specific and awkward. I used a Purple Dragonfly on the left and a Yellow Dragon on the right in the pocket above the big foothold. (A Purple Dragon went in better than the Dragonfly but it interfered with the Yellow Dragon placement.) At the overlap above, a Rock or Wallnut 6 goes in a fragile-looking slot under its R end. There is a decent Purple Dragon about 30 cm to the right of this but it is hard to spot and place. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Protection for the crux is fairly specific and awkward. I used a Purple Dragonfly on the left and a Yellow Dragon on the right in the pocket above the big foothold. (A Purple Dragon went in better than the Dragonfly but it interfered with the Yellow Dragon placement.) At the overlap above, a Rock or Wallnut 6 goes in a fragile-looking slot under its R end. There is a decent Purple Dragon about 30 cm to the right of this but it is hard to spot and place. |
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Route of Interest
Ten Degrees North
Grade: E2 5c ***
(Dinas Mot)