Rockfax Description
One the best crux sequences in the Pass. You may well end up bamboozled or even end up body-bridging Quarryman style across the groove!
1) 20m. As for Plexus P1, but belay just below and to the right of the Plexus belay.
2) 5b, 10m. Climb a wall then head right (peg) to the groove. From the base of this, make a step out left onto an obvious foothold, and a tricky mantel to get into the scooped slab above; all quite blind! Belay on the slab.
3) 5c, 20m. Smear, palm and contort up the rounded groove to reach a small roof. Pass this on the right and climb up to a peg, then head to a small overhang and trend up and right to a good belay just right of the huge capping roof.
4) 5b, 10m. Move up into the booming flake directly above the belay and climb up to reach the traverse line of Nexus. This leads left round the arete to belay at the perched block on P3 of Plexus. This can be a bit of a bun fight on a busy day as three classic routes converge here.
5) 4b, 20m. Climb the rest of P3 and then P4 of Plexus in one. © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Ultimate E2 ticklist, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist.

peter.herd 13/Jul AltLd


jezb1 17/Jun Lead

Only P1 & P2. P3 felt bold and precarious to someone who's been sport climbing a lot lately so I sacked it off over to Plexus!

steven_daniels99 14/Jun 2nd
Hidden 14/Jun AltLd
td72 25/May Lead O/S
bryan61 25/May AltLd dog

managed the crux ? but took a fall on the traverse of pitch 4

with Tom D
ianstevens 09/Apr AltLd
joedean 09/Apr AltLd
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 05/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

p2, 4. Great route, one of the best I've done. Pitch 3 is unique, and 4 gives some super exposed climbing on huge holds.

with Deacon
deacondeacon 05/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Pitches 1,3&5. I got the crux pitch but pitch 4 was no pushover either. Bridged the crux facing outwards pretty much. One of the best routes I've done in Wales.

Hidden 03/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
DubyaJamesDubya 18/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with Ian Smith
HeatherF 09/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

Crazy cruxy moves! Felt quite bold for e2

with Ugg
Sardien 03/Jun/16 AltLd rpt

Led the main pitch and superhappy with this. This piece of velcro rock is by far one of my favourite places .

Fragmod 30/May/16 Lead
hlegge 27/May/16 AltLd O/S
jsmcfarland 13/May/16 AltLd O/S

Tim linked P1+P2 (easy enough with belayer standing on ground below P2) and I led the crux P3 pitch. Amazing climbing throughout, it really is like gritstone. I did the crux body-bridge style which worked perfectly, though a little scary as I was only above RP's. We abbed after P3 as the rest of the climb didn't look that great. **** route.

with Tim
tim.fairhall 13/May/16 AltLd

Led P1 & 2; abbed after P3

with Sachi
Nifec14 ??/2016 -
RKirke 03/Oct/15 AltLd O/S
Jake Young 03/Oct/15 AltLd O/S

amazing, not what i was expecting at all but really good. would highly recommend!

with Roger K
bigdrew 18/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
with Dan
wi11 01/Jul/15 AltLd dnf

Some rain

with Gareth
FreddieSmith 08/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
with Becky Good
Hidden 28/May/15 AltLd O/S
spidermonkey09 28/May/15 AltLd O/S

What a route! Led pitches 1, 3 and 4. Groove pitch sensational, but could do with a bit of crack clear out to find a few more runners. Friction amazing throughout, not a bit of polish. Nexus traverse on P3 felt 5c to me. Also someone with a crowbar on a wet day could do with moving the cam blocking the hold on the traverse!

mike mo ??/2015 -
mike mo ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
edmitchell 18/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Adam Booth 18/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Sardien 01/Jul/14 2nd O/S

2 Pitches only with 60m ropes, if you start on the top of the first ledge. Actually found the top pitch much harder than the 5c pitch but Andy led all, I was happy to second both pitches clean and psyched to lead it next

with Andy Scott
Rich Kirby 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Ace.Tough at E2.....pretty serious on crux.

with Helen
Steve Crowe 19/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Stunning route. Great bridging.

with KM
Hidden 18/Jun/14 AltLd
tebs 15/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with Andy
The Grist 15/Jun/14 Lead O/S
PaulTanton 15/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Sadie 24/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Adam brown lead p1 and 3, I lead 2 and 4. Absolute must do route, interesting climbing. Really had to think...

Allanfairfechan ??/2014 AltLd
with Steve Davis
Steve Long ??/2014 -
Bob ??/2014 -
Si ??/2014 -
oliverpcain ??/2014 AltLd O/S
shed_hed 04/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Dougie led up until the Nexus belay in one pitch and I led to the top in one go. Cool route - some really baffling and precarious moves on the low pitches! I think most moves involved a smear or two. Found the traverse bit harder this time as a cam was stuck in the handhold which made moving across to the arete more awkward. Amazing sunset and sky over an inversion in Llanberis on the top belay to top it all off.

dswansonlow 04/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Scrambled up to ledge, I did the first 2 pitches, then Darren went to the top. Puzzling crux with good gear but the slab below would break your fall first.

mop449 01/Sep/13 2nd β
redjerry 01/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Danny
DaveMo 10/Aug/13 AltLd
with Jan
Hidden 10/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21/Jul/13 AltLd
JulesV 20/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Shauna Cunningham
mike lawrence? 16/Jul/13 AltLd

FatRob stole the crux pitch. A good route but not great so that was surprising. Covered in an appalling amount of chalk, really lessened the climb, shame on whoever lugged buckets full of the stuff up there.

with FatRob
Hidden 14/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13/Jul/13 -
Dan724 09/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Led first 3 (crux) pitches

Gerallt Owain 09/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
with Dan H
Hidden 08/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
chris sm ?/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
owain86 18/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
Alex Mason 18/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Sweet arse arseing

Luke Brooks 10/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Can't believe I've lived in North Wales for 4 years and hadn't done this. So good!

with Dave Evans
Mike_Hayes 09/Jun/13 2nd O/S

Probably should have warmed up on something easier. Precarious is the word.

CragDog 04/Jun/13 2nd
tim newton 26/May/13 AltLd O/S
Misha 26/May/13 AltLd O/S

Did this after Lubyanka earlier in the day - a great day out. I got the crux pitch and spent a long time trying to figure out the puzzling crux, where falling off wouldn't be a great idea. Eventually managed it with some weird contortions. The rest of the pitch was pretty trick as well. Tim took a while to commit to the 5b traverse moves on the next pitch - when I got there, I found out why! We were pretty tired by that point, having done a few routes on the Cromlech the previous day as well. A good route.

richpickford ??/2013 -
A Crook 11/Aug/12 AltLd

It all starts at P2. (P1 being easy but pretty much unprotected 4b climbing / traverse) P2 has gear were you need it although the belay described in the book is not a good as you want. P3 is sublime friction climbing, gear found after every move but not before. Some contortions needed but any grit stone climber would be familiar with any of them, P4 pretty steady 5a with a small one 5b in the sky bit polished but nothing compared to numerous other routes in the pass. P5 lovely 4b climbing. (I stitched it into P4 just care on rope work)

mux 11/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

interest all the way, Very good.

with A Crook
Owain Llewelyn 02/Jun/12 AltLd
with Brad
Hidden 31/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden 25/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
cem 30/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Led p 3 & 5.

with Charles Mason
benkelsey 25/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

lead p2 and 4. pitch 2 felt bold but with good moves, pitch 3 was balancy for the crux but pretty solid 5a for the rest. pitch 4 was amazing traverse on jugs out to the arete, so gutted I forgot my camera. made a total mess of the belay at the top of pitch 2. seems to be becoming a recurring trend.

Hidden 24/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
JRae 09/Jul/11 AltLd

Really really good! Different.. but at least as good as left wall we reckoned. Ran together P2 and P3 for one monster awesome pitch.

with A Saul
CRiddiford 09/Jul/11 AltLd dog

really nice route, liked nexus traverse a lot when i got it. But, route finding skills need improvement!! me p1,3, tom, p2

with Tom
Reaver2k 09/Jul/11 AltLd
with JRae
thomasadixon 09/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 2 and 3 together. Brilliant.

NickJH ?/Jul/11 2nd
with LiamG
Hidden ?/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/Jun/11 AltLd rpt
geoff b 28/Jun/11 AltLd
mynyddresident 03/May/11 AltLd O/S

apres work,p 1,3,5.

with wolf
wolf.leeb 03/May/11 AltLd O/S

technical and funky.. 3 quality 3star pitches..

with nic
benchwarmer 21/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Generally easier than Tremadog E2 5c's! Liam dispatched the 5c pitch with style.

with Liam
david morse 21/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Best E2 in the Pass?

with G Unit
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
centurion05 ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
gforce 16/Aug/10 Lead

Brilliant. Wasn't sure wehether the couple of weeps that we could see were crucial. Turned out to be fine.

with Kath
dan gibson 06/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
with andy stoatsbury
beci tointen ?/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with my uncle carl
Coel Hellier 25/Jun/10 AltLd
with Pat
irish paul 19/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
with Sarah Joyce
lrandall 05/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

Last route after two weeks in the pass. Lead 2nd and 4th pitches (5b and 5b). Nice climbing on both, tho the traverse on pitch 4 has the most polished holds I've ever come across. Hat of to matt for leading the precarious crux pitch.

Hidden 05/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/May/10 AltLd
Tomprusk 17/Apr/10 Lead O/S
DuncanR 10/Apr/10 AltLd

Freakin hard and wierd Climbing! Awesome though.

with Scott Mckenzie
soph ??/2010 Lead
soph ??/2010 Lead
barni 31/May/09 AltLd O/S
with Paul James
Hidden 31/May/09 AltLd rpt
Hidden 03/May/09 Lead O/S
Dan 85 28/Jul/08 AltLd O/S

Good, but many E2s are better. Poor gear for crux moves.

with Francis
Hidden 23/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
Marcus ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
Al Evans ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 Lead O/S
pauldrew 26/Aug/07 Lead
Derek Ryden 10/Jun/07 AltLd O/S
with Glynne Andrew
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
mr mills ??/2007 Lead O/S

a must for every E2 climber ! superb

with paul simkiss
Mark Stevenson 16/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
with Tania Noakes
NeilGriffiths 11/Jun/06 AltLd
with Simon Frost
Hidden ?/Jun/06 -
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
a_radiohead_fan ??/2005 -
Hidden ?/Aug/03 AltLd O/S
Mark Kemball 13/Jul/03 AltLd
with Nic Dill
Hidden ?/Jun/03 AltLd dnf
lost.arrow 29/May/98 AltLd
with Tim Malone
Hidden 16/May/98 AltLd O/S
lost.arrow 30/May/97 AltLd
with Tim Malone
Ched ??/1997 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
Hidden 08/Jun/96 AltLd
Hidden 23/Aug/95 AltLd O/S
michael burrows 18/Jun/95 AltLd O/S
with richard parry
ste_d 19/Jul/94 AltLd O/S
with mik
nokishatov 16/Jul/94 AltLd O/S

Crux was wet, did via some strange contortions

Hidden 19/Jun/94 Lead O/S
rob.grafton ??/1993 -
with tony howard, Matthew Bransby, chris pugh
WB ??/1992 AltLd O/S
Rob Davies 31/Aug/91 Lead

Start of groove not too bad for 5c, but runners are sparse after that. Crack up to traverse on Nexus is much easier than it looks.

with Angus McLean
Nick Biven 13/Aug/91 AltLd
with Tim Snaith
Hidden 27/Jul/91 AltLd
andybirtwistle 26/May/91 Lead
with John Earl
Seymore Butt ??/1990 -
with Spuz
Greg Cunningham ?/Aug/89 AltLd
wynaptomos ?/Aug/88 AltLd O/S
charlesmfrench 14/May/88 AltLd O/S


uphillnow 14/May/88 AltLd

got pitch 2

with charlie french
andy gittins ??/1988 -
Hidden 20/Jun/87 2nd
Hidden ??/1987 AltLd
Hidden 24/Jun/86 Lead
Hidden 07/Jul/85 AltLd
GuyM ??/1985 -
Melok ??/1985 Lead
Hidden 23/Apr/84 Lead
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ??/1984 Lead
with Phillippa Mathews
Martin Bennett 03/Aug/83 -
with Cec
Robmwatt ??/1983 -
Nigel Bond 30/May/82 AltLd
with Charlie Leverton
Hidden ??/1982 Lead
Paul Clarke ??/1981 Lead
with Mick Tolley
Hidden 03/May/80 Lead
Hidden ??/1980 Lead
tmawer ??/1979 AltLd
with Matt Boyer
Steve Bell ??/1979 -
Mike Owen 14/Jun/78 Lead O/S
with Joe Healey
mikej 24/May/78 2nd
with Wil Hurford
jon 07/May/78 Lead
with Elaine
Hidden 29/Apr/78 AltLd
Ian Jones ??/1978 2nd β
with David Greenald, Dave Cowans
Steve Lewis 30/Aug/76 AltLd O/S
with sharpie
RichardMc ??/1976 Lead O/S
with Dave Langmead
Andy Edgar ??/1975 Lead O/S
petemeads ??/1975 AltLd
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