UKC

35m. Another fine wall climb with great climbing and a sequency crux by the pegs. The fixed gear can be backed up with wires but the route is still a bold undertaking. High in the grade. Incorrectly described in West Country Climbs! The original line climbs up at the first spike NOT the second (Fay)spike.

FA. Steve Monks 17.5.87 17/May/1987.

Ticklists

Great Wall Climbs of the UK , Very good routes in the UK , West Country Climbs , 100 or so good E6s - aye Caff , South West in Extremis

Feedback

User Date Notes
i_a_coops 28 Jul Show βeta
βeta: First peg broke today when Katie's foot slipped and she kicked it. It would definitely not have held a fall and the top peg isn't far behind it. The pegs are totally unnecessary however with lots of other options available, personally don't think they should be replaced.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: First peg broke today when Katie's foot slipped and she kicked it. It would definitely not have held a fall and the top peg isn't far behind it. The pegs are totally unnecessary however with lots of other options available, personally don't think they should be replaced.
Will Rupp 24 Jul Show βeta
βeta: Belay added July 2025, pegs and wires equalised. This can be easily accessed by climbing up fay and walking across the top. Pegs on route are terrible, however tied off the did take a fall. Lots of good solid gear around them, so they are very much not essential. Start is not very hard, but gear is ok/iffy in sandy rock. Good contender for flash.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Belay added July 2025, pegs and wires equalised. This can be easily accessed by climbing up fay and walking across the top. Pegs on route are terrible, however tied off the did take a fall. Lots of good solid gear around them, so they are very much not essential. Start is not very hard, but gear is ok/iffy in sandy rock. Good contender for flash.
waddy 1990 Show βeta
βeta: Y.a.g.
Show beta
βeta: Y.a.g.

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Voting
High E8
Mid E8
Low E8
High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 10
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 14
Votes cast 11
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
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Grade: E7 6c ***
(Pellitras Point)

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