UKC

25m.

Rockfax Description
A mighty popular pitch needing care in its lower reaches. Start below a short crack in a bulge and shallow scoop. Climb the crack and scoop to a good hold and some gear above. Continue on well-spaced but positive holds to a steep finishing sequence. © Rockfax

FA. K. Marsden 27.7.93 27/Jul/1993.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , Ultimate E2 ticklist , Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist , CUC Climbing Club, Part 2: Hidden Gems, Adventures & Harder Offerings , World Class Britain & Ireland , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , Paul Dearden's classic rock climbs , Culm Along , Starred routes S-E2, North Devon , Top 25 E Grades in the southwest , South West in Extremis , Devon and surrounding counties, 51 E1, some E2, 1 E3 and an E9

Feedback

User Date Notes
Misha 18 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Gear for the abseil above the route - nuts 2 or 3, 7 and 9, cams 0.3 and 0.4, peg. 40m would be fine including for rigging. Or trail from large blocks up the slope but then there’s risk of sending down choss and probably need 60m.
Show beta
βeta: Gear for the abseil above the route - nuts 2 or 3, 7 and 9, cams 0.3 and 0.4, peg. 40m would be fine including for rigging. Or trail from large blocks up the slope but then there’s risk of sending down choss and probably need 60m.
Tall Oak 26 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Very cool climb.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very cool climb.
Joemullett24 19 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Beautiful, marked a loose block halfway up the diagonal crack with an x
Show beta
βeta: Beautiful, marked a loose block halfway up the diagonal crack with an x
connagh97 18 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: There is a very loose block about halfway up.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There is a very loose block about halfway up.
Master Chief 20 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Undercut flake right at the top came off in my hands today. Luckily no one was hurt! Has left a few loose bits! Doesn't effect grade!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Undercut flake right at the top came off in my hands today. Luckily no one was hurt! Has left a few loose bits! Doesn't effect grade!
Fiend 12 Aug, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Does what it says on the tin. Standard for the grade if bold at the start, classic wall climbing.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Does what it says on the tin. Standard for the grade if bold at the start, classic wall climbing.
chris j 15 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic route! Gear is good the whole way up, just a little spaced at the start (though not dangerously so, reasonable cam placements). Nice technical climbing, good rests all over the place, strenuous for the last 20 feet. Not sure about the deceptively loose holds, didn't find anything particularly worrying...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Fantastic route! Gear is good the whole way up, just a little spaced at the start (though not dangerously so, reasonable cam placements). Nice technical climbing, good rests all over the place, strenuous for the last 20 feet. Not sure about the deceptively loose holds, didn't find anything particularly worrying...
NuclearNev 15 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Take car, this route has several deceptively loose holds waiting for some newby bolt jockey to rip out. I have done it twice in the last couple of weeks and you defeintely need to chose your gear and hand placements carefully (particularily at 2/3 height on the largish finger flake, which is very hollow sounding).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Take car, this route has several deceptively loose holds waiting for some newby bolt jockey to rip out. I have done it twice in the last couple of weeks and you defeintely need to chose your gear and hand placements carefully (particularily at 2/3 height on the largish finger flake, which is very hollow sounding).
JasonG 15 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Superb route. Poor protection low down, don't waste energy, press on and good gear and excellent moves follow.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Superb route. Poor protection low down, don't waste energy, press on and good gear and excellent moves follow.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Lower Sharpnose Point

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 144
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 139
Votes cast 136
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Rainbow Games

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Carn Gowla)

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