UKC

45m.

Rockfax Description
A huge pitch that incorporates some fine climbing, although not without some very loose rock in its mid section. Start at a thin crack in the dark crevasse on the landward side of the face.
Climb the thin cracks up the bulging lower wall to an easing at 15m. Continue up the face-crack passing a loose section to better climbing and rock where the crack starts to thin. © Rockfax

FA. Steve Bell, Pete O?Sullivan 12.4.86 12/Apr/1986.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs

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User Date Notes
Fiend 10 Sep, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Not your average lineless climbing-wall-style Sharpnose experience. A big and spectacular line - get a photographer on the descent path for the top section. The start is pretty tricky but the rock in the middle is a bit of a shocker, all very Gogarth. Feels like E3 if it goes to plan but could be E5 if something big comes off especially if your gear is behind it - so E4 average is about right. Very satisfying all the same.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Not your average lineless climbing-wall-style Sharpnose experience. A big and spectacular line - get a photographer on the descent path for the top section. The start is pretty tricky but the rock in the middle is a bit of a shocker, all very Gogarth. Feels like E3 if it goes to plan but could be E5 if something big comes off especially if your gear is behind it - so E4 average is about right. Very satisfying all the same.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Lower Sharpnose Point

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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 7
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 8
Votes cast 8
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Eroica

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Pentire Point)

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