UKC

50m.

Rockfax Description
A worthwhile and adventurous link. Climb Lunakhod for 20m to the second break above a quartz band and make a short traverse left, round the arete to join the upper cracks of Spoils of War. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The first 20 metres of Lunakhod , then step left and climb the cracks of Spoils of War to the top is described as a splendid expedition. Others might say gruelling - loose rock, rope drag, and sustained. E2 is a more sensible grade.

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User Date Notes
steveb2006 11 Dec, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: The logical point to leave Lunakhod is at an obvious wide quartzy band. This puts you below a bulge in the Spoils... crack. The climbing up isnt hard but it is steep and you have to place gear in and pull quite hard on a dubious wedged block (see comments for Spoils of War). Advisable to place high gear in Lunakhod before stepping left. Upper part is ok, pretty sustained. Long pitch - agree with E2. (It is probably possible to traverse out of Lunakhod at a higher level, but doesn't seem right).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The logical point to leave Lunakhod is at an obvious wide quartzy band. This puts you below a bulge in the Spoils... crack. The climbing up isnt hard but it is steep and you have to place gear in and pull quite hard on a dubious wedged block (see comments for Spoils of War). Advisable to place high gear in Lunakhod before stepping left. Upper part is ok, pretty sustained. Long pitch - agree with E2. (It is probably possible to traverse out of Lunakhod at a higher level, but doesn't seem right).

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Guidebooks for Lower Sharpnose Point

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 4
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 4
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Onsighted
Not Set
Route of Interest
Suicide Wall

Grade: E1 5c ***
(Bosigran)

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