The climbing on Stair Hole, Dungy Head and Durdle Door all fall within an area of land mapped as Open Access under CRoW. Climbing is a permitted activity under the CRoW legislation so there is a legal right of access to all three areas for climbers, walkers and members of the public.
A climbers code of conduct has been developed to help address concerns about conflict between climbers, members of the public and nesting birds - please follow the guidelines closely. Please take a discrete approach to climbing in the area which periodically attracts negative attention through tombstoning and the resulting injuries and rescues. Climbing and DWS are clearly different and permitted here, but can be caught up in media stories about tombstoning, so make an effort to keep a low profile so as not to encourage members of the public to have a go.
For safety reasons, there is no public access to the military ranges east of Lulworth Cove (which are used for live firing), other than on days when the ranges are open due to firing not taking place and even then only the marked path can be used. This means that no climbing can be accessed within the ranges at any time as it would necessitate walking off of the marked path.
Reason: Nesting Birds
Protected birds have been known to nest on crags in the area (in particular Dungy Head) in the past. Please observe any on site signage regarding restrictions if the birds do return.
Rockfax Description
S0. A brilliant juggy traverse across the bottom of the wall passing a double kneebar shakeout mid-route. © Rockfax
FA. Pete Oxley 19/May/1992.
ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Classic UK F7s , Hard water , Jurassic 7a , Dorset weekender , Dorset DWS progression , Portland Trip , 2020-2021 Deep Water Solo Goals , Unfinished business , DWS200 - Dream Targets up to 7b+ , Red Spot Swanage & Lulworth , South England DWS Dreams , DWS Tour England and Wales - Classics
User | Date | Notes | ||
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AlexD | 13 Jun, 2022 |
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βeta: There is a little Rock Pippit nesting in the last hole of the traverse before pulling onto the final wall. Please don't disturb. | βeta? | |
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βeta: There is a little Rock Pippit nesting in the last hole of the traverse before pulling onto the final wall. Please don't disturb. |
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django | 13 Aug, 2021 |
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βeta: ...this much fun should be illegal! | βeta? | |
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βeta: ...this much fun should be illegal! |
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harrybeadle | 19 Jun, 2020 |
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βeta: Seagulls nesting on the ridge approach 17/6/20, only way is to swim in. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Seagulls nesting on the ridge approach 17/6/20, only way is to swim in. |
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Toby Lee | 11 Jun, 2020 |
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βeta: I'd say its S1 - the first ~2m are above sharp rocks on slab below, take care here | βeta? | |
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βeta: I'd say its S1 - the first ~2m are above sharp rocks on slab below, take care here |
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GwynethUttley | 4 Jun, 2020 |
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βeta: Absolute classic | βeta? | |
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βeta: Absolute classic |
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john nightingale | 23 Aug, 2006 |
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βeta: mass ascent from the nottingham boys, but as usual pete fell off. | βeta? | |
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βeta: mass ascent from the nottingham boys, but as usual pete fell off. |
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Grade: 7a ***
(Wallsend North)