UKC

Restricted Access

The climbing on Stair Hole, Dungy Head and Durdle Door all fall within an area of land mapped as Open Access under CRoW. Climbing is a permitted activity under the CRoW legislation so there is a legal right of access to all three areas for climbers, walkers and members of the public.

A climbers code of conduct has been developed to help address concerns about conflict between climbers, members of the public and nesting birds - please follow the guidelines closely. Please take a discrete approach to climbing in the area which periodically attracts negative attention through tombstoning and the resulting injuries and rescues. Climbing and DWS are clearly different and permitted here, but can be caught up in media stories about tombstoning, so make an effort to keep a low profile so as not to encourage members of the public to have a go.

For safety reasons, there is no public access to the military ranges east of Lulworth Cove (which are used for live firing), other than on days when the ranges are open due to firing not taking place and even then only the marked path can be used. This means that no climbing can be accessed within the ranges at any time as it would necessitate walking off of the marked path.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

Protected birds have been known to nest on crags in the area (in particular Dungy Head) in the past. Please observe any on site signage regarding restrictions if the birds do return.
25m.

Rockfax Description
S3. A magnificent route, which overhangs 10m in its 25m length and features a bit of a stopper move to finish. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 22/Dec/1992.

Ticklists

Outragous Positions , SUMC's Steep Testpieces , Steep UK Sport Routes

Feedback

User Date Notes
tetley 6 May, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Mega!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Mega!

Logged Ascents

20 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Lulworth

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 54 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 5
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
DWS
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
White Rave

Grade: 7a+ ***
(Dancing Ledge)

Loading Notifications...