The climbing on Stair Hole, Dungy Head and Durdle Door all fall within an area of land mapped as Open Access under CRoW. Climbing is a permitted activity under the CRoW legislation so there is a legal right of access to all three areas for climbers, walkers and members of the public.
A climbers code of conduct has been developed to help address concerns about conflict between climbers, members of the public and nesting birds - please follow the guidelines closely. Please take a discrete approach to climbing in the area which periodically attracts negative attention through tombstoning and the resulting injuries and rescues. Climbing and DWS are clearly different and permitted here, but can be caught up in media stories about tombstoning, so make an effort to keep a low profile so as not to encourage members of the public to have a go.
For safety reasons, there is no public access to the military ranges east of Lulworth Cove (which are used for live firing), other than on days when the ranges are open due to firing not taking place and even then only the marked path can be used. This means that no climbing can be accessed within the ranges at any time as it would necessitate walking off of the marked path.
Reason: Nesting Birds
Protected birds have been known to nest on crags in the area (in particular Dungy Head) in the past. Please observe any on site signage regarding restrictions if the birds do return.
Rockfax Description
6b+, S0, 45m. An enjoyable traverse. Start by scrambling around to a ledge in the first cave. Make a wild swing onto the underside of a slab and then onto a boulder in the back of the second cave. Continue to the arete. Reverse the route. © Rockfax
FSA. Pete Oxley and a team of locals 29/May/1993.
Dorset weekender , Dorset DWS progression , 2020-2021 Deep Water Solo Goals , DWS200 - Dream Targets up to 7b+ , South West Coast Traversing ticklist , Red Spot Swanage & Lulworth
User | Date | Notes | ||
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plant_based_tommo | 14 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: Probably the best warm up at the crag. dries quickly, not too sharp, pumpy, juggy and with plenty of rests to avoid the flashpump. excellent! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Probably the best warm up at the crag. dries quickly, not too sharp, pumpy, juggy and with plenty of rests to avoid the flashpump. excellent! |
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tombeasley | 23 Dec, 2004 |
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βeta: An excellent deep water solo gets better and better everytime! | βeta? | |
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βeta: An excellent deep water solo gets better and better everytime! |
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Grade: E1 5b ***
(Subluminal and Lighthouse Cliff)