35m.
A steep and serious route with some suspect rock and sparse protection on the high crux section. This climb starts 10 metres to the right of ‘Just around the Corner’ and follows the obvious flake crack. Low to mid tide start.
Start directly below the big crack line, gaining this by layback to reach the overhanging flakes at 5.5 metres, (no.5 cam useful). Launch up these flakes and then follow the crack line with increasing difficulty to gain a small prow on the left, 4 metres from the top. Bridge right onto the headwall and climb steeply, small cam possible.
Care now required on high angle rock/grass slopes leading to a belay well back on upper outcrop.
Start directly below the big crack line, gaining this by layback to reach the overhanging flakes at 5.5 metres, (no.5 cam useful). Launch up these flakes and then follow the crack line with increasing difficulty to gain a small prow on the left, 4 metres from the top. Bridge right onto the headwall and climb steeply, small cam possible.
Care now required on high angle rock/grass slopes leading to a belay well back on upper outcrop.
Robin Neath, Sabrina Brooke 11/Aug/2022.
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Route of Interest
Plane Sailing
Grade: E3 5c ***
(Stackpole Head)