UKC

23m. A steep route up the boulder buttress with an overhanging off width section needing large cams.
Start 3 metres left of the overhanging crack line of Boom or Bust, under the rising off width line.

Bridge up the hanging fluted off width crack system, then make a series of moves under a prow leftwards to reach a wide overhanging crack (crux), following this for a few metres and then climbing through a bulge to a ledge.

The rock from this point (2/3 height) needs great care.

Move left along the ledge system, in fine situation, rising to the headwall which bounds the top section of the buttress, small cams.

Launch up the headwall, avoiding the large dubious flake on the right, but using a good hidden hold on the finishing arĂȘte.

Care at the top, a pre placed belay rope being advisable at this point.

R Neath, S Quinton 07/Apr/2023.

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Salty Dog

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Stackpole Head)

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