Restricted Access
Access to Malham is a privilege and subject to the following climbers access agreement. Please ensure you read, understand and follow these points to ensure continued good relations with the Parish Council, other landowners, farmers and local residents
- Stick to public rights of way - don't take short cuts though fields below the Cove as these are not Open Acces land
- Always use the public toilet block next to the pub instead of the bushes
- Follow the bolting agreement - no bolting at weekends, during the school summer holiday or whilst the nesting restriction is in effect to ensure noise doesn't disturb nesting birds or detract from other visitors experience
- No wild camping near the Cove or nearby fields, or sleeping in vehicles in the village or parking areas - use the campsite at Riverside campsite in Malham, or the Gordale Scar campsite instead
- Parking is a very sensitive issue - only park in the locations listed in the parking section below
- Make use of local business (pubs/cafes/restaurants etc) after a day at the crag and help to put money back into the local economy
By following these guidelines, you'll be making sure the currently good relations with the village and Parish Council are maintained for the future.
Respect the Rock: How to climb at Malham Cove - YouTube
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 September
Reason: Nesting Birds
Update: The Peregrine restriction for 2025 has been lifted as of 19th May. Sadly the nest failed this year.
Rockfax Description
A fine historical landmark with a superb top pitch. A point of aid is usually needed to make the route more balanced.1) 5b, 22m. Climb boldly to a ledge then more easily up rightwards to a bulge. Traverse left then move up the corner past trees to a belay in the cave. This pitch is now dirty and loose so it is better to start up Carnage Left-hand.2) 5b (6b free), 20m. Move right and use the ageing peg and a sling to pull through the roof. Climb the wall to a break then step right and move up to the famous mantelshelf ledge. Pass this to gain another break then swing right to finish up a small groove. The Blinds Finish takes the groove above the mantelshelf ledge. Should the aid peg disappear then you can climb the tree to get around the overhang. © Rockfax
FA. Tony and Robin Barley (2pts) 1965. FFA. Ron Fawcett 1979.
Ticklists
Hard Rock , Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett , 100 best limestone climbs in Britain , CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain , Ultimate E2 ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Hard Rock 2020 , Yorkshire Limestone top 50 , 3* Extreme Northern Trad , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| phatlad | 30 Aug, 2005 |
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βeta: avoid pitch one!!!!!! unless you lead E5 and are happy on loose hold with no gear and muddy feet! | βeta? | |
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βeta: avoid pitch one!!!!!! unless you lead E5 and are happy on loose hold with no gear and muddy feet! |
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| kevin stephens | 31 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: Also thin crack to right mentioned as alternative start also looks serious and felt much harder | βeta? | |
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βeta: Also thin crack to right mentioned as alternative start also looks serious and felt much harder |
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| kevin stephens | 31 Jul, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: First pitch very serious, no gear, creaky undercuts over bulge, then run out continues a very long way before eventually reacing nuts and very old peg, then demanding traverse left which is very dirty (at present), loose holds and again very run out before reacing the tree. I may have been having a bad day but I thought E3 5b. At least I can now enjoy Mullato and CLH without repeating pitches | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: First pitch very serious, no gear, creaky undercuts over bulge, then run out continues a very long way before eventually reacing nuts and very old peg, then demanding traverse left which is very dirty (at present), loose holds and again very run out before reacing the tree. I may have been having a bad day but I thought E3 5b. At least I can now enjoy Mullato and CLH without repeating pitches |
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| GDes | 16 Jun, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: start up carnage LH-much better. top pitch is 5c i reckon | βeta? | |
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βeta: start up carnage LH-much better. top pitch is 5c i reckon |
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| Ricardo | 15 Jul, 2002 |
Show βeta
βeta: Peg looks fine to me on P2. 6b is about right. First pitch was covered in mud - tried to do it but lowered off. Do yourself a favour and start up either Carnage LH or better Mullato P1 | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Peg looks fine to me on P2. 6b is about right. First pitch was covered in mud - tried to do it but lowered off. Do yourself a favour and start up either Carnage LH or better Mullato P1 |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Malham Cove
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
The Black Chipper
Grade: E2 5b ***
(Brimham Rocks)