Rockfax Description
A fine historical landmark with a superb top pitch. A point of aid is usually needed to make the route more balanced.1) 5b, 22m. Climb boldly to a ledge then more easily up rightwards to a bulge. Traverse left then move up the corner past trees to a belay in the cave. This pitch is now dirty and loose so it is better to start up Carnage Left-hand.2) 5b (6b free), 20m. Move right and use the ageing peg and a sling to pull through the roof. Climb the wall to a break then step right and move up to the famous mantelshelf ledge. Pass this to gain another break then swing right to finish up a small groove. The Blinds Finish takes the groove above the mantelshelf ledge. Should the aid peg disappear then you can climb the tree to get around the overhang. © Rockfax
FA. Tony and Robin Barley (2pts) 1965. FFA. Ron Fawcett 1979.
Ticklists
Hard Rock, Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, Ultimate E2 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Hard Rock 2020, Yorkshire Limestone top 50, Hard Rock 2020, 3* Extreme Northern Trad
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | |
|---|---|---|---|
| phatlad | 30 Aug, 2005 |
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βeta: avoid pitch one!!!!!! unless you lead E5 and are happy on loose hold with no gear and muddy feet! | βeta? |
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βeta: avoid pitch one!!!!!! unless you lead E5 and are happy on loose hold with no gear and muddy feet! |
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| kevin stephens | 31 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: Also thin crack to right mentioned as alternative start also looks serious and felt much harder | βeta? |
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βeta: Also thin crack to right mentioned as alternative start also looks serious and felt much harder |
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| kevin stephens | 31 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: First pitch very serious, no gear, creaky undercuts over bulge, then run out continues a very long way before eventually reacing nuts and very old peg, then demanding traverse left which is very dirty (at present), loose holds and again very run out before reacing the tree. I may have been having a bad day but I thought E3 5b. At least I can now enjoy Mullato and CLH without repeating pitches | βeta? |
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Show beta
βeta: First pitch very serious, no gear, creaky undercuts over bulge, then run out continues a very long way before eventually reacing nuts and very old peg, then demanding traverse left which is very dirty (at present), loose holds and again very run out before reacing the tree. I may have been having a bad day but I thought E3 5b. At least I can now enjoy Mullato and CLH without repeating pitches |
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| Ged Desforges | 16 Jun, 2004 |
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βeta: start up carnage LH-much better. top pitch is 5c i reckon | βeta? |
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βeta: start up carnage LH-much better. top pitch is 5c i reckon |
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| Ricardo | 15 Jul, 2002 |
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βeta: Peg looks fine to me on P2. 6b is about right. First pitch was covered in mud - tried to do it but lowered off. Do yourself a favour and start up either Carnage LH or better Mullato P1 | βeta? |
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Show beta
βeta: Peg looks fine to me on P2. 6b is about right. First pitch was covered in mud - tried to do it but lowered off. Do yourself a favour and start up either Carnage LH or better Mullato P1 |
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Logged Ascents
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Pillar Front
Grade: E2 5b ***(Eastby Crag)