UKC

Restricted Access

Access to Malham is a privilege and subject to the following climbers access agreement. Please ensure you read, understand and follow these points to ensure continued good relations with the Parish Council, other landowners, farmers and local residents

  • Stick to public rights of way - don't take short cuts though fields below the Cove as these are not Open Acces land
  • Always use the public toilet block next to the pub instead of the bushes
  • Follow the bolting agreement - no bolting at weekends, during the school summer holiday or whilst the nesting restriction is in effect to ensure noise doesn't disturb nesting birds or detract from other visitors experience
  • No wild camping near the Cove or nearby fields, or sleeping in vehicles in the village or parking areas - use the campsite at Riverside campsite in Malham, or the Gordale Scar campsite instead
  • Parking is a very sensitive issue - only park in the locations listed in the parking section below
  • Make use of local business (pubs/cafes/restaurants etc) after a day at the crag and help to put money back into the local economy

By following these guidelines, you'll be making sure the currently good relations with the village and Parish Council are maintained for the future.

Respect the Rock: How to climb at Malham Cove - YouTube

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 September

Reason: Nesting Birds

Update: The Peregrine restriction for 2025 has been lifted as of 19th May. Sadly the nest failed this year.

26m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Great climbing to a fine finish. 1) 5a, 10m. Climb upto a flake then rightwards past two trees to a good belay on a ledge. 2) 5c, 16m. Move up left then back right and upto a rock scar. Continue to good holds then move right. Step up to the ramp and follow this and the right wall to finish. © Rockfax

FA. Tony and Robin Barley (1pt) 1967. FFA. Pete Livesey 1970s and given VS!.

Ticklists

Ultimate E2 ticklist , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs

Feedback

User Date Notes
Fiend 14 Aug, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Enjoyable route that's obviously done in one pitch. Good rock and good continuous climbing, especially the finish. The crux is desperate for "5c" and harder than anything on Sundance Wall or Wombat.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Enjoyable route that's obviously done in one pitch. Good rock and good continuous climbing, especially the finish. The crux is desperate for "5c" and harder than anything on Sundance Wall or Wombat.
GDes 16 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: much better done in one pitch
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: much better done in one pitch
John Stainforth 22 Aug, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Incredibly, this was given ordinary VS in 1970. I remember thinking it was then about as hard as Vector at Tremadoc, i.e. E2 5C, much the same as the current perception!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Incredibly, this was given ordinary VS in 1970. I remember thinking it was then about as hard as Vector at Tremadoc, i.e. E2 5C, much the same as the current perception!

Logged Ascents

297 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Malham Cove

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Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 39
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 38
Votes cast 38
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Snatch Arete

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Scugdale - Barker's Crags)

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