UKC

25m.

Rockfax Description
An historically significant classic of great difficulty. The climbing is extremely sustained and technical with only the odd poor shake-out. Originally the route finished at the halfway ledge, subsequent ascents have ended at the rest out on the right above the redpoint crux. There is a link-up into Predator at 8b+ named Cry Baby that takes the undercuts left to the finish of Predator. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The free ascent of the old aid route "Controversey"

FA. Mark Leach 1988. A superb ascent after many day's of effort to produce a route as hard as any in the World at the time..

Ticklists

A lifetimes worth of inspiration , UK 8a and up , Yorkshire Limestone top 50

Feedback

User Date Notes
maxrose 1 Jun Show βeta
βeta: House martins are nesting in the knee bar at the top. There are two permadraws which allow an early-lower off before arriving at the nest (in the corner before the final boulder)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: House martins are nesting in the knee bar at the top. There are two permadraws which allow an early-lower off before arriving at the nest (in the corner before the final boulder)

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Malham Cove

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Voting
High 8c+
Mid 8c+
Low 8c+
High 8c
Mid 8c
Low 8c
High 8b+
Mid 8b+
Low 8b+
High 8b
Mid 8b
Low 8b
Votes cast 14
Votes cast 10
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Redpoint
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Aladdin

Grade: 8c ***
(Giggleswick North)

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