Restricted Access
Access to Malham is a privilege and subject to the following climbers access agreement. Please ensure you read, understand and follow these points to ensure continued good relations with the Parish Council, other landowners, farmers and local residents
- Stick to public rights of way - don't take short cuts though fields below the Cove as these are not Open Acces land
- Always use the public toilet block next to the pub instead of the bushes
- Follow the bolting agreement - no bolting at weekends, during the school summer holiday or whilst the nesting restriction is in effect to ensure noise doesn't disturb nesting birds or detract from other visitors experience
- No wild camping near the Cove or nearby fields, or sleeping in vehicles in the village or parking areas - use the campsite at Riverside campsite in Malham, or the Gordale Scar campsite instead
- Parking is a very sensitive issue - only park in the locations listed in the parking section below
- Make use of local business (pubs/cafes/restaurants etc) after a day at the crag and help to put money back into the local economy
By following these guidelines, you'll be making sure the currently good relations with the village and Parish Council are maintained for the future.
Respect the Rock: How to climb at Malham Cove - YouTube
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 September
Reason: Nesting Birds
Update: The Peregrine restriction for 2025 has been lifted as of 19th May. Sadly the nest failed this year.
Rockfax Description
A near sport route (7a+). Follow the wall (wire) past pegs to a hard move for a bolt. Pass this then go right to a belay. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The first peg has snapped (the bottom of the eye is missing) and a wire placement has gone too. Recommendations received not to treat this route as a sport route.
NOW FULLY BOLTED - see Duck Dive (Sport)
FA. Graham Desroy, Martin Berzins, Chris Sowden 1985.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| teddy | 30 May, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Nice route with unobvious step right above bolt. A bit dusty through lack of traffic. Pegs now dubious after 21 years of rusting away. Time for retroing? Would get more traffic then and give people more warmup options upstairs. There is only one wire on it at the start just like Sycophants which was retro'd a few years ago. Would be difficult to replace like with like due to them being hard to remove and the limited nature of the placements in the first place. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Nice route with unobvious step right above bolt. A bit dusty through lack of traffic. Pegs now dubious after 21 years of rusting away. Time for retroing? Would get more traffic then and give people more warmup options upstairs. There is only one wire on it at the start just like Sycophants which was retro'd a few years ago. Would be difficult to replace like with like due to them being hard to remove and the limited nature of the placements in the first place. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Malham Cove
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
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Balas
Grade: E5 6b ***
(Kilnsey)