UKC

Restricted Access

Access to Malham is a privilege and subject to the following climbers access agreement. Please ensure you read, understand and follow these points to ensure continued good relations with the Parish Council, other landowners, farmers and local residents

  • Stick to public rights of way - don't take short cuts though fields below the Cove as these are not Open Acces land
  • Always use the public toilet block next to the pub instead of the bushes
  • Follow the bolting agreement - no bolting at weekends, during the school summer holiday or whilst the nesting restriction is in effect to ensure noise doesn't disturb nesting birds or detract from other visitors experience
  • No wild camping near the Cove or nearby fields, or sleeping in vehicles in the village or parking areas - use the campsite at Riverside campsite in Malham, or the Gordale Scar campsite instead
  • Parking is a very sensitive issue - only park in the locations listed in the parking section below
  • Make use of local business (pubs/cafes/restaurants etc) after a day at the crag and help to put money back into the local economy

By following these guidelines, you'll be making sure the currently good relations with the village and Parish Council are maintained for the future.

Respect the Rock: How to climb at Malham Cove - YouTube

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 September

Reason: Nesting Birds

Update: The Peregrine restriction for 2025 has been lifted as of 19th May. Sadly the nest failed this year.

41m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A neglected classic with two fine and sustained pitches.
1) 6b, 21m. Move up then head leftwards to a peg and jammed wire. Gain the small corner above and then the slim groove up and right. Easier climbing leads to the belay.
2) 6b, 20m. Step left from the belay and pull through the bulge to a steep groove (left of the larger groove). Climb this past a hole (thread) and up to a break. Move right and up to a short corner and climb up and right to finish. © Rockfax

FA. Martin Atkinson, Barry Rawlinson, Nick Unsworth 1982.

Ticklists

Caff's 100 Ace E5s , 6b

Feedback

User Date Notes
whispering nic 25 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Awesome. Did in one pitch which justied the old E6 tag
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Awesome. Did in one pitch which justied the old E6 tag
GeoffG 19 Jan, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: stunning. doesn't get the attention it deserves. a brilliant addition from basher.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: stunning. doesn't get the attention it deserves. a brilliant addition from basher.

Logged Ascents

7 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Malham Cove

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 3 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 5
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 3
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Onsighted
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Deliverance

Grade: E5 6b ***
(Gordale Scar)

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