UKC

Restricted Access

Access to Malham is a privilege and subject to the following climbers access agreement. Please ensure you read, understand and follow these points to ensure continued good relations with the Parish Council, other landowners, farmers and local residents

  • Stick to public rights of way - don't take short cuts though fields below the Cove as these are not Open Acces land
  • Always use the public toilet block next to the pub instead of the bushes
  • Follow the bolting agreement - no bolting at weekends, during the school summer holiday or whilst the nesting restriction is in effect to ensure noise doesn't disturb nesting birds or detract from other visitors experience
  • No wild camping near the Cove or nearby fields, or sleeping in vehicles in the village or parking areas - use the campsite at Riverdale or Goredale instead
  • Parking is a very sensitive issue - only park in the locations listed in the parking section below
  • Make use of local business (pubs/cafes/restaurants etc) after a day at the crag and help to put money back into the local economy

By following these guidelines, you'll be making sure the currently good relations with the village and Parish Council are maintained for the future.

Respect the Rock: How to climb at Malham Cove - YouTube

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 September

Reason: Nesting Birds

 

Update: The Peregrine restriction for 2023 has been lifted (as of 23rd May) due to nest failure.

 

Peregrine restriction:  Malham is an important and very visible site for nesting peregrines. The restriction when in force applies to all the routes on the Terrace Wall and the Carnage Area of the Right Wing from 1st March-31st July. However, the routes to the right of Scorpio (which starts as for Carnage Left Hand) are unrestricted.

The bolted sport routes on the right side of Upper Central Wall are unaffected except for those that breach the main overhang. On-site notices will also be in place and RSPB volunteers will monitor the birds throughout the nesting period. 

House martins also frequently nest between May-September, often on the popular hard sport routes (frequently affecting Raindogs, Seventh Aardvark, Bat Route and others). Please avoid any routes with nests on or near to avoid damaging the nests, until the young have fledged. It will be obvious which nests are being used due to parents flying in and out. Whilst routes can be climbed once the young have fledged, they can return to the nest site to roost, so be careful not to damage the nests.

41m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A neglected classic with two fine and sustained pitches.
1) 6b, 21m. Move up then head leftwards to a peg and jammed wire. Gain the small corner above and then the slim groove up and right. Easier climbing leads to the belay.
2) 6b, 20m. Step left from the belay and pull through the bulge to a steep groove (left of the larger groove). Climb this past a hole (thread) and up to a break. Move right and up to a short corner and climb up and right to finish. © Rockfax

FA. Martin Atkinson, Barry Rawlinson, Nick Unsworth 1982.

Ticklists

Caff's 100 Ace E5s

Feedback

User Date Notes
whispering nic 25 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Awesome. Did in one pitch which justied the old E6 tag
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Awesome. Did in one pitch which justied the old E6 tag
GeoffG 19 Jan, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: stunning. doesn't get the attention it deserves. a brilliant addition from basher.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: stunning. doesn't get the attention it deserves. a brilliant addition from basher.

Logged Ascents

7 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Malham Cove

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 3 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 5
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 3
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Onsighted
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Doubting Thomas

Grade: E5 6b ***
(Malham Cove)

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