UKC

Restricted Access

Access to Malham is a privilege and subject to the following climbers access agreement. Please ensure you read, understand and follow these points to ensure continued good relations with the Parish Council, other landowners, farmers and local residents

  • Stick to public rights of way - don't take short cuts though fields below the Cove as these are not Open Acces land
  • Always use the public toilet block next to the pub instead of the bushes
  • Follow the bolting agreement - no bolting at weekends, during the school summer holiday or whilst the nesting restriction is in effect to ensure noise doesn't disturb nesting birds or detract from other visitors experience
  • No wild camping near the Cove or nearby fields, or sleeping in vehicles in the village or parking areas - use the campsite at Riverside campsite in Malham, or the Gordale Scar campsite instead
  • Parking is a very sensitive issue - only park in the locations listed in the parking section below
  • Make use of local business (pubs/cafes/restaurants etc) after a day at the crag and help to put money back into the local economy

By following these guidelines, you'll be making sure the currently good relations with the village and Parish Council are maintained for the future.

Respect the Rock: How to climb at Malham Cove - YouTube

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 September

Reason: Nesting Birds

Update: The Peregrine restriction for 2025 has been lifted as of 19th May. Sadly the nest failed this year.

27m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A wandering line but with good climbing. Start at the right-hand end of the long low roof below a pillar. 1) 5b, 12m. Make a hard move up to good holds. Follow the right-hand groove to a roof. Traverse delicately left to a ledge. 2) 4c, 17m. Step up left onto a ledge and climb the flake before moving out right onto the wall. Follow the wall before stepping back into the corner near the top. © Rockfax

FA. Alan Austin, Brian Evans 1961.

Ticklists

Classic Rock Climbs In Northern England by Bill Birket , 100 best limestone climbs in Britain , Allan Austin Classics , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs , Yorkshire limestone trad VS - E1 ticklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
Stone Muppet 12 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: more agreement - junkyard angel is consistant at the grade and far better
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: more agreement - junkyard angel is consistant at the grade and far better
Ricardo 15 Jul, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: A one star route at best. Do Junkyard Angel instead
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A one star route at best. Do Junkyard Angel instead

Logged Ascents

214 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Malham Cove

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 18 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 18
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 19
Votes cast 18
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Junkyard Angel

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Malham Cove)

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