UKC

Restricted Access

Access to Malham is a privilege and subject to the following climbers access agreement. Please ensure you read, understand and follow these points to ensure continued good relations with the Parish Council, other landowners, farmers and local residents

  • Stick to public rights of way - don't take short cuts though fields below the Cove as these are not Open Acces land
  • Always use the public toilet block next to the pub instead of the bushes
  • Follow the bolting agreement - no bolting at weekends, during the school summer holiday or whilst the nesting restriction is in effect to ensure noise doesn't disturb nesting birds or detract from other visitors experience
  • No wild camping near the Cove or nearby fields, or sleeping in vehicles in the village or parking areas - use the campsite at Riverdale or Goredale instead
  • Parking is a very sensitive issue - only park in the locations listed in the parking section below
  • Make use of local business (pubs/cafes/restaurants etc) after a day at the crag and help to put money back into the local economy

By following these guidelines, you'll be making sure the currently good relations with the village and Parish Council are maintained for the future.

Respect the Rock: How to climb at Malham Cove - YouTube

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 September

Reason: Nesting Birds

 

Update: The Peregrine restriction for 2023 has been lifted (as of 23rd May) due to nest failure.

 

Peregrine restriction:  Malham is an important and very visible site for nesting peregrines. The restriction when in force applies to all the routes on the Terrace Wall and the Carnage Area of the Right Wing from 1st March-31st July. However, the routes to the right of Scorpio (which starts as for Carnage Left Hand) are unrestricted.

The bolted sport routes on the right side of Upper Central Wall are unaffected except for those that breach the main overhang. On-site notices will also be in place and RSPB volunteers will monitor the birds throughout the nesting period. 

House martins also frequently nest between May-September, often on the popular hard sport routes (frequently affecting Raindogs, Seventh Aardvark, Bat Route and others). Please avoid any routes with nests on or near to avoid damaging the nests, until the young have fledged. It will be obvious which nests are being used due to parents flying in and out. Whilst routes can be climbed once the young have fledged, they can return to the nest site to roost, so be careful not to damage the nests.

20m.

Rockfax Description
A superb and exposed route featuring a fierce lower third and a very sustained slim groove above. © Rockfax

Craig Smith 12/Sep/1985.

Ticklists

Classic UK F7s , Yorkshire Limestone Graded List , Yorkshire Limestone top 50 , The "I live in West Yorkshire and have a rockfax digital subscription" 7's sport bible

Feedback

User Date Notes
Will Hunt 5 Nov, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Alpha style draws can get twisted and caught on the nut of bolts in the groove.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Alpha style draws can get twisted and caught on the nut of bolts in the groove.
GDes 23 Jul, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: prepare to have your skin trashed on the crux section on the first few looks. Amaizing climb, best on the wall?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: prepare to have your skin trashed on the crux section on the first few looks. Amaizing climb, best on the wall?
Andy Farnell 12 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Bouldery in an old school way crux low down, then the stunning upper groove. Amazing position and rock, sustained and technical, hard to read (on first aquaintence) moves. Possibly the line of the wall, with climbing to match. Last three bolts look suspect though.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Bouldery in an old school way crux low down, then the stunning upper groove. Amazing position and rock, sustained and technical, hard to read (on first aquaintence) moves. Possibly the line of the wall, with climbing to match. Last three bolts look suspect though.
marky 14 Dec, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Mega route. Sharp boulder problem start to a shakeout into a very sustained and technical groove to finish.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Mega route. Sharp boulder problem start to a shakeout into a very sustained and technical groove to finish.

Logged Ascents

75 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Malham Cove

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 29 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 8a
Mid 8a
Low 8a
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
Votes cast 23
Votes cast 20
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Onsighted
Not Set
Route of Interest
South Wall Central

Grade: 7c+ ***
(Trow Gill)

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