UKC

Restricted Access

Access to Malham is a privilege and subject to the following climbers access agreement. Please ensure you read, understand and follow these points to ensure continued good relations with the Parish Council, other landowners, farmers and local residents

  • Stick to public rights of way - don't take short cuts though fields below the Cove as these are not Open Acces land
  • Always use the public toilet block next to the pub instead of the bushes
  • Follow the bolting agreement - no bolting at weekends, during the school summer holiday or whilst the nesting restriction is in effect to ensure noise doesn't disturb nesting birds or detract from other visitors experience
  • No wild camping near the Cove or nearby fields, or sleeping in vehicles in the village or parking areas - use the campsite at Riverdale or Goredale instead
  • Parking is a very sensitive issue - only park in the locations listed in the parking section below
  • Make use of local business (pubs/cafes/restaurants etc) after a day at the crag and help to put money back into the local economy

By following these guidelines, you'll be making sure the currently good relations with the village and Parish Council are maintained for the future.

Respect the Rock: How to climb at Malham Cove - YouTube

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 September

Reason: Nesting Birds

 

Update: The Peregrine restriction for 2023 has been lifted (as of 23rd May) due to nest failure.

 

Peregrine restriction:  Malham is an important and very visible site for nesting peregrines. The restriction when in force applies to all the routes on the Terrace Wall and the Carnage Area of the Right Wing from 1st March-31st July. However, the routes to the right of Scorpio (which starts as for Carnage Left Hand) are unrestricted.

The bolted sport routes on the right side of Upper Central Wall are unaffected except for those that breach the main overhang. On-site notices will also be in place and RSPB volunteers will monitor the birds throughout the nesting period. 

House martins also frequently nest between May-September, often on the popular hard sport routes (frequently affecting Raindogs, Seventh Aardvark, Bat Route and others). Please avoid any routes with nests on or near to avoid damaging the nests, until the young have fledged. It will be obvious which nests are being used due to parents flying in and out. Whilst routes can be climbed once the young have fledged, they can return to the nest site to roost, so be careful not to damage the nests.

17m.

Rockfax Description
The original route of this wall. There is a particularly thin sequence of moves above the little roof. The roof above the lower-off is an aid line. © Rockfax

FA. Rob Gawthorpe 1984.

Ticklists

Extreme Rock , 100 best limestone climbs in Britain , Yorkshire Limestone Graded List , A lifetimes worth of inspiration , Northern Rock's Little Gems , UK 8a and up

Feedback

User Date Notes
Peter Dickinson 27 Oct, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Initially tried moving right onto crimps off the undercut by the fourth bolt, then up to gaston the banana sloper. This is hard. Found it easier however to go left hand up to a shallow two finger pocket, off the undercut, then go right hand up to the banana hold. This also puts you in the right position for the next sequence.
Show beta
βeta: Initially tried moving right onto crimps off the undercut by the fourth bolt, then up to gaston the banana sloper. This is hard. Found it easier however to go left hand up to a shallow two finger pocket, off the undercut, then go right hand up to the banana hold. This also puts you in the right position for the next sequence.
Andy Farnell 6 Aug, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Ignore the comment's in Pete's name as he didn't write them. But we all know who did...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Ignore the comment's in Pete's name as he didn't write them. But we all know who did...
Andy Farnell 2 Jul, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Since the pencil layway has gone it's a much harder move, very tough crimping on a small edge for the crux. Probably 8a now, feel's harder overall than New Age IMHO.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Since the pencil layway has gone it's a much harder move, very tough crimping on a small edge for the crux. Probably 8a now, feel's harder overall than New Age IMHO.
marky 14 Nov, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Managed to do this on Sunday without the infamous pencil hold. Still feels more like 8a to me with the new sequence. Very sustained to the half-height easing with a crimpy crux.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Managed to do this on Sunday without the infamous pencil hold. Still feels more like 8a to me with the new sequence. Very sustained to the half-height easing with a crimpy crux.
marky 6 Nov, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: I managed to pull the crucial pencil layaway hold off on Sunday and it shattered into many pieces so not possible to glue back on! Still possible at the same grade or maybe slightly harder using the tiny and very sharp crimp to the left?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I managed to pull the crucial pencil layaway hold off on Sunday and it shattered into many pieces so not possible to glue back on! Still possible at the same grade or maybe slightly harder using the tiny and very sharp crimp to the left?
marky 17 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Surely this must be 8a - easily as hard as Toadall Recall?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Surely this must be 8a - easily as hard as Toadall Recall?
Andy Farnell 23 Feb, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Utterly brilliant face climbing.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Utterly brilliant face climbing.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Malham Cove

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Voting
High 8a+
Mid 8a+
Low 8a+
High 8a
Mid 8a
Low 8a
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
Votes cast 30
Votes cast 29
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Over The Thumb

Grade: 8a ***
(Kilnsey)

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