Restricted Access
Access to Malham is a privilege and subject to the following climbers access agreement. Please ensure you read, understand and follow these points to ensure continued good relations with the Parish Council, other landowners, farmers and local residents
- Stick to public rights of way - don't take short cuts though fields below the Cove as these are not Open Acces land
- Always use the public toilet block next to the pub instead of the bushes
- Follow the bolting agreement - no bolting at weekends, during the school summer holiday or whilst the nesting restriction is in effect to ensure noise doesn't disturb nesting birds or detract from other visitors experience
- No wild camping near the Cove or nearby fields, or sleeping in vehicles in the village or parking areas - use the campsite at Riverside campsite in Malham, or the Gordale Scar campsite instead
- Parking is a very sensitive issue - only park in the locations listed in the parking section below
- Make use of local business (pubs/cafes/restaurants etc) after a day at the crag and help to put money back into the local economy
By following these guidelines, you'll be making sure the currently good relations with the village and Parish Council are maintained for the future.
Respect the Rock: How to climb at Malham Cove - YouTube
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 September
Reason: Nesting Birds
Update: The Peregrine restriction for 2025 has been lifted as of 19th May. Sadly the nest failed this year.
Rockfax Description
The original route of this wall. There is a particularly thin sequence of moves above the little roof. The roof above the lower-off is an aid line. © Rockfax
FA. Rob Gawthorpe 1984.
Ticklists
Extreme Rock , 100 best limestone climbs in Britain , Yorkshire Limestone Graded List , A lifetimes worth of inspiration , Northern Rock's Little Gems , UK 8a and up
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Alessandro78 | 19 Feb |
Show βeta
βeta: To my dismay the grade had taken a dip to 7c+ for a couple of days...my only 8a!! Jokes apart, for what is worth from an absolute punter within such a grade, I have done a few routes on the upper tier and (soft?) 8a for Main Overhang is consistent with the rest of the bunch. In my opinion Herbie is enormously easier (could be hard 7c) and New Age Travellers, the way everyone seem to do it these days, is significantly easier at 7c+. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: To my dismay the grade had taken a dip to 7c+ for a couple of days...my only 8a!! Jokes apart, for what is worth from an absolute punter within such a grade, I have done a few routes on the upper tier and (soft?) 8a for Main Overhang is consistent with the rest of the bunch. In my opinion Herbie is enormously easier (could be hard 7c) and New Age Travellers, the way everyone seem to do it these days, is significantly easier at 7c+. |
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| Peter Dickinson | 27 Oct, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Initially tried moving right onto crimps off the undercut by the fourth bolt, then up to gaston the banana sloper. This is hard. Found it easier however to go left hand up to a shallow two finger pocket, off the undercut, then go right hand up to the banana hold. This also puts you in the right position for the next sequence. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Initially tried moving right onto crimps off the undercut by the fourth bolt, then up to gaston the banana sloper. This is hard. Found it easier however to go left hand up to a shallow two finger pocket, off the undercut, then go right hand up to the banana hold. This also puts you in the right position for the next sequence. |
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| Andy Farnell | 6 Aug, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: Ignore the comment's in Pete's name as he didn't write them. But we all know who did... | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Ignore the comment's in Pete's name as he didn't write them. But we all know who did... |
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| Andy Farnell | 2 Jul, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: Since the pencil layway has gone it's a much harder move, very tough crimping on a small edge for the crux. Probably 8a now, feel's harder overall than New Age IMHO. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Since the pencil layway has gone it's a much harder move, very tough crimping on a small edge for the crux. Probably 8a now, feel's harder overall than New Age IMHO. |
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| marky | 14 Nov, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Managed to do this on Sunday without the infamous pencil hold. Still feels more like 8a to me with the new sequence. Very sustained to the half-height easing with a crimpy crux. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Managed to do this on Sunday without the infamous pencil hold. Still feels more like 8a to me with the new sequence. Very sustained to the half-height easing with a crimpy crux. |
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| marky | 6 Nov, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: I managed to pull the crucial pencil layaway hold off on Sunday and it shattered into many pieces so not possible to glue back on! Still possible at the same grade or maybe slightly harder using the tiny and very sharp crimp to the left? | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I managed to pull the crucial pencil layaway hold off on Sunday and it shattered into many pieces so not possible to glue back on! Still possible at the same grade or maybe slightly harder using the tiny and very sharp crimp to the left? |
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| marky | 17 Sep, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Surely this must be 8a - easily as hard as Toadall Recall? | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Surely this must be 8a - easily as hard as Toadall Recall? |
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| Andy Farnell | 23 Feb, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Utterly brilliant face climbing. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Utterly brilliant face climbing. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Malham Cove
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
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Soft Option
Grade: 8a ***
(Kilnsey)