UKC

Restricted Access

Access to Malham is a privilege and subject to the following climbers access agreement. Please ensure you read, understand and follow these points to ensure continued good relations with the Parish Council, other landowners, farmers and local residents

  • Stick to public rights of way - don't take short cuts though fields below the Cove as these are not Open Acces land
  • Always use the public toilet block next to the pub instead of the bushes
  • Follow the bolting agreement - no bolting at weekends, during the school summer holiday or whilst the nesting restriction is in effect to ensure noise doesn't disturb nesting birds or detract from other visitors experience
  • No wild camping near the Cove or nearby fields, or sleeping in vehicles in the village or parking areas - use the campsite at Riverdale or Goredale instead
  • Parking is a very sensitive issue - only park in the locations listed in the parking section below
  • Make use of local business (pubs/cafes/restaurants etc) after a day at the crag and help to put money back into the local economy

By following these guidelines, you'll be making sure the currently good relations with the village and Parish Council are maintained for the future.

Respect the Rock: How to climb at Malham Cove - YouTube

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 September

Reason: Nesting Birds

 

Update: The Peregrine restriction for 2023 has been lifted (as of 23rd May) due to nest failure.

 

Peregrine restriction:  Malham is an important and very visible site for nesting peregrines. The restriction when in force applies to all the routes on the Terrace Wall and the Carnage Area of the Right Wing from 1st March-31st July. However, the routes to the right of Scorpio (which starts as for Carnage Left Hand) are unrestricted.

The bolted sport routes on the right side of Upper Central Wall are unaffected except for those that breach the main overhang. On-site notices will also be in place and RSPB volunteers will monitor the birds throughout the nesting period. 

House martins also frequently nest between May-September, often on the popular hard sport routes (frequently affecting Raindogs, Seventh Aardvark, Bat Route and others). Please avoid any routes with nests on or near to avoid damaging the nests, until the young have fledged. It will be obvious which nests are being used due to parents flying in and out. Whilst routes can be climbed once the young have fledged, they can return to the nest site to roost, so be careful not to damage the nests.

20m.

Rockfax Description
One of Yorkshire's most coveted sport climbs. Sustained climbing leads to a taxing finish. High in the grade. © Rockfax

FA. Steve Lewis 1984. The infamous run-out at the top has undergone several changes in its life. Currently it is a good bit less scary than it has been but it is still enough to get you thinking..

Ticklists

Classic UK F7s , World Graded List , Yorkshire Limestone Graded List , Yorkshire Limestone top 50 , York University Students path to greatness , Lime Time , The "I live in West Yorkshire and have a rockfax digital subscription" 7's sport bible

Feedback

User Date Notes
Deema Mozayen 15 Feb, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: For future tries: investigate kneebars above bottom crux on flake and at the very top to get to the chain.
Show beta
βeta: For future tries: investigate kneebars above bottom crux on flake and at the very top to get to the chain.
Neil Binns 30 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Brilliant superbly exposed route. Not sure about the "rests where you want". I only found one below the last bolt. I suspect if you can recover anywhere else, you probably don't need to!
Show beta
βeta: Brilliant superbly exposed route. Not sure about the "rests where you want". I only found one below the last bolt. I suspect if you can recover anywhere else, you probably don't need to!
Andy Farnell 25 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: No way is this 7c. Solid 7b+, sustained but with good rests where you want, no really hard moves and steady climbing all the way.
Show beta
βeta: No way is this 7c. Solid 7b+, sustained but with good rests where you want, no really hard moves and steady climbing all the way.
GDes 25 Mar, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: no, its benchmark 7b+ surely? and awesome
Show beta
βeta: no, its benchmark 7b+ surely? and awesome

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Malham Cove

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Voting
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
Votes cast 78
Votes cast 64
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Dogpoint to below the roof

Grade: 7b+ ***
(Gordale Scar)

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