UKC

Restricted Access

Access to Malham is a privilege and subject to the following climbers access agreement. Please ensure you read, understand and follow these points to ensure continued good relations with the Parish Council, other landowners, farmers and local residents

  • Stick to public rights of way - don't take short cuts though fields below the Cove as these are not Open Acces land
  • Always use the public toilet block next to the pub instead of the bushes
  • Follow the bolting agreement - no bolting at weekends, during the school summer holiday or whilst the nesting restriction is in effect to ensure noise doesn't disturb nesting birds or detract from other visitors experience
  • No wild camping near the Cove or nearby fields, or sleeping in vehicles in the village or parking areas - use the campsite at Riverdale or Goredale instead
  • Parking is a very sensitive issue - only park in the locations listed in the parking section below
  • Make use of local business (pubs/cafes/restaurants etc) after a day at the crag and help to put money back into the local economy

By following these guidelines, you'll be making sure the currently good relations with the village and Parish Council are maintained for the future.

Respect the Rock: How to climb at Malham Cove - YouTube

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 September

Reason: Nesting Birds

 

Update: The Peregrine restriction for 2023 has been lifted (as of 23rd May) due to nest failure.

 

Peregrine restriction:  Malham is an important and very visible site for nesting peregrines. The restriction when in force applies to all the routes on the Terrace Wall and the Carnage Area of the Right Wing from 1st March-31st July. However, the routes to the right of Scorpio (which starts as for Carnage Left Hand) are unrestricted.

The bolted sport routes on the right side of Upper Central Wall are unaffected except for those that breach the main overhang. On-site notices will also be in place and RSPB volunteers will monitor the birds throughout the nesting period. 

House martins also frequently nest between May-September, often on the popular hard sport routes (frequently affecting Raindogs, Seventh Aardvark, Bat Route and others). Please avoid any routes with nests on or near to avoid damaging the nests, until the young have fledged. It will be obvious which nests are being used due to parents flying in and out. Whilst routes can be climbed once the young have fledged, they can return to the nest site to roost, so be careful not to damage the nests.

12m.

Rockfax Description
Direct from above the first wall of Consenting Adults. © Rockfax

FA. John Dunne 1987.

Feedback

User Date Notes
RD 18 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: It would be hard to have placed both the bolts in a worse place. One below and off route, the other only clippable once you're above it. Typical Yorkshire bolting! Without the quickdraw on the 4th bolt it's quite scary with a nasty fall.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: It would be hard to have placed both the bolts in a worse place. One below and off route, the other only clippable once you're above it. Typical Yorkshire bolting! Without the quickdraw on the 4th bolt it's quite scary with a nasty fall.
Neil Binns 26 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: No really! - I clipped the extension from a crimp prior to going up for the pinch, which meant that when you are clipping the 4th bolt, your feet are level with where the rope is clipped into the extension. It definitely takes the edge off things psycologically. I agree its very sequency and tricky for 7b.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: No really! - I clipped the extension from a crimp prior to going up for the pinch, which meant that when you are clipping the 4th bolt, your feet are level with where the rope is clipped into the extension. It definitely takes the edge off things psycologically. I agree its very sequency and tricky for 7b.
Tim Broughtonshaw 25 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: I wouldn't have though so mate. The 4th bolt is some way above the third and you start the crux sequence with the 3rd bolt at your face. Really nice route and took me a while to unlock the mose efficient sequence as it is a scary clip. I had to reach past the 4th bolt and get the good spike out right before i could clip. Definately hard 7b though.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I wouldn't have though so mate. The 4th bolt is some way above the third and you start the crux sequence with the 3rd bolt at your face. Really nice route and took me a while to unlock the mose efficient sequence as it is a scary clip. I had to reach past the 4th bolt and get the good spike out right before i could clip. Definately hard 7b though.
Neil Binns 25 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: It is possible to put a long sling on the 4th bolt and clip it when standing on the good footholds below the 3rd bolt. This effectively removes the fluttery heart symbol.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: It is possible to put a long sling on the 4th bolt and clip it when standing on the good footholds below the 3rd bolt. This effectively removes the fluttery heart symbol.

Logged Ascents

218 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Malham Cove

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Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
Votes cast 47
Votes cast 42
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Repeated
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Pimp with a Limp Direct.

Grade: 7b ***
(Trow Gill)

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