UKC

Restricted Access

Access to Malham is a privilege and subject to the following climbers access agreement. Please ensure you read, understand and follow these points to ensure continued good relations with the Parish Council, other landowners, farmers and local residents

  • Stick to public rights of way - don't take short cuts though fields below the Cove as these are not Open Acces land
  • Always use the public toilet block next to the pub instead of the bushes
  • Follow the bolting agreement - no bolting at weekends, during the school summer holiday or whilst the nesting restriction is in effect to ensure noise doesn't disturb nesting birds or detract from other visitors experience
  • No wild camping near the Cove or nearby fields, or sleeping in vehicles in the village or parking areas - use the campsite at Riverdale or Goredale instead
  • Parking is a very sensitive issue - only park in the locations listed in the parking section below
  • Make use of local business (pubs/cafes/restaurants etc) after a day at the crag and help to put money back into the local economy

By following these guidelines, you'll be making sure the currently good relations with the village and Parish Council are maintained for the future.

Respect the Rock: How to climb at Malham Cove - YouTube

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 September

Reason: Nesting Birds

 

Update: The Peregrine restriction for 2023 has been lifted (as of 23rd May) due to nest failure.

 

Peregrine restriction:  Malham is an important and very visible site for nesting peregrines. The restriction when in force applies to all the routes on the Terrace Wall and the Carnage Area of the Right Wing from 1st March-31st July. However, the routes to the right of Scorpio (which starts as for Carnage Left Hand) are unrestricted.

The bolted sport routes on the right side of Upper Central Wall are unaffected except for those that breach the main overhang. On-site notices will also be in place and RSPB volunteers will monitor the birds throughout the nesting period. 

House martins also frequently nest between May-September, often on the popular hard sport routes (frequently affecting Raindogs, Seventh Aardvark, Bat Route and others). Please avoid any routes with nests on or near to avoid damaging the nests, until the young have fledged. It will be obvious which nests are being used due to parents flying in and out. Whilst routes can be climbed once the young have fledged, they can return to the nest site to roost, so be careful not to damage the nests.

12m.

Rockfax Description
One of the UK's most popular 8a routes. Sustained climbing with a draining move to the belay. You only get the full tick if you grab the belay without a quick-draw in place! © Rockfax

FA. Dave Kenyon 1986.

Ticklists

THE classic old skool 8a's , World Graded List , The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist , Mike and Connors 2 year plan , Yorkshire Limestone Graded List , 28 Decent Sport Routes , UK 8a and up , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Northern Limestone for Catalans , Yorkshire Limestone top 50 , Short King's Queen Lines , Sportland , Another lifelist? , Sport life

Feedback

User Date Notes
meggies 9 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: If House Martins are nesting on the route - go and climb something else!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: If House Martins are nesting on the route - go and climb something else!
GDes 23 Jul, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Surely not using the hold out right near the top is merely an 8a variant? It's hardly off route. Eliminate not to use it.
Show beta
βeta: Surely not using the hold out right near the top is merely an 8a variant? It's hardly off route. Eliminate not to use it.
Andy Farnell 18 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Ignore the polish (it doesn't affect the climbing) and enjoy the moves. Brilliant from the floor to the belay. Make sure you've got enough in reserve when you get to the last clip as it's not over till its over.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Ignore the polish (it doesn't affect the climbing) and enjoy the moves. Brilliant from the floor to the belay. Make sure you've got enough in reserve when you get to the last clip as it's not over till its over.
John Cooke 5 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: This should be at the top of every aspiring 8a climbers wishlist. A classic power endurance route with no desperately hard stopper moves, it just keeps coming at you! Quickly clip that power sapping last draw and power on up to the belay. Definitive 8a.
Show beta
βeta: This should be at the top of every aspiring 8a climbers wishlist. A classic power endurance route with no desperately hard stopper moves, it just keeps coming at you! Quickly clip that power sapping last draw and power on up to the belay. Definitive 8a.
teddy 25 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: The undercut 'squeeze' for the right hand which you can clip the last bolt from before reaching back up left for the last few crux moves is definitely on line. The jug you refer to is even further right and (I agree) off limits. The superdirect line which misses out this squeeze is 'harder' 8a.
Show beta
βeta: The undercut 'squeeze' for the right hand which you can clip the last bolt from before reaching back up left for the last few crux moves is definitely on line. The jug you refer to is even further right and (I agree) off limits. The superdirect line which misses out this squeeze is 'harder' 8a.

Logged Ascents

334 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Malham Cove

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 157 users have this on their wishlist

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Voting
High 8a+
Mid 8a+
Low 8a+
High 8a
Mid 8a
Low 8a
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
Votes cast 89
Votes cast 71
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Onsighted
Not Set
Route of Interest
Def Continuous Left

Grade: 8a ***
(Gordale Scar)

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